On 5 November we leave China crossing the border into Laos and Luang Namtha where we'll stay for a few days to soak up the relative peace and quiet of the country.

6 Nov update:  Arrived late yesterday after a very tiring and long bus journey from Jinghong then a change at Mengla (where we rode through town on motorised wheelbarrows) to a small bus for an even more tiring and dusty ride to the border.  The scenery was magnificent following the Lancang River (that becomes the Mekong in SE Asia) although work is going on with a new Chinese highway which is planned to go all th way to Thailand.  We there arrived at the China border with only 2 minutes to spare befre it closed. We were rushed through where we met our pick-up pleased to be on our way. How wrong could we be because when we reached the Laos border post 2km further on, it had just closed. Nothing could budge the officials who proceeded to head for baths and showers (they were crssing the road in nothing but towels!)  But they opened 1 hour later and we got through.

The Boat Landing is great and Luamg Namtha is a wonderful contrast to China.  The surroundings are peaceful, the food is different, the Lao beer is wonderful and we have decided to stay until Saturday when we head off to Luang Prabang. Tomorrow (Tuesday) we're off on a 2 day hike into the mountains to visit and stay with local Akha people, a hill tribe originally from Cambodia. 

Well what can we say, but the trek was probably the best and most interesting experience we've had so far.  We had two Lao guides, young men called Tong and Kang (whom we jokingly called Mr Tong (who'd learned his English during his time as a monk) and Mr Kang (who got married at 13!)).  We were really lucky with our trekking companions. Peter (72) and Rosmarie (64) from Switzerland were a lovely couple and great fun - and fortunately we got on like a house on fire, especially as we had to sleep together! Peter and Rosmarie were brilliant hikers and we were all mightily impressed with their ability and stamina, and particularly their positive attitude to life. 

The first day of the trek was a 4 to 5 hour hike through the countryside and then heavily forested hills, involving lots of pretty steep climbing.  It was really hot and humid and we were relieved to eventually arrive at the Akha's mountain village where we would stay overnight.   Perhaps naively, we had been expecting the village to be pretty basic but at least with some amenities.  We were all surprised at how primitive and backward the people, village and way of life were. We were shown round and met the chief villager.  There were dogs, pigs, hens, children everywhere.  Many of the children and some adults looked in poor health.  In a way it was understandable that they treated their animals in a different way from us - after all they were their food, including the dogs!  We felt a bit uncomfortable and intrusive at first, but we appeared to be a great attraction to them.  Unlike many other cultures and children we've met on these and previous travels, the children did not come up to us asking for things such as sweets or money.  What they were interested in was in looking at our jewellery, cameras, binoculars, specs and how we used them.  The children can get married at 15.  If a boy and girl like each other they can decide to go into a 'love house' (see photo album) - and who knows what they get up to and what might happen! 

Throughout the 2 day trek most of the food was supplied from the forest and the village (5 chickens were killed in our honour and the rice came from their own fields).  Occasionally Mr Kang would disappear for a while then come back laden with bamboo shoots, mushrooms, ferns all of which went into our meals which they cooked for us (see photo album).  Everything was absolutely delicious - we'd never have been able to try these things ourselves.  On route we also ate nuts from the forest floor, a plant that tasted a bit like rhubarb, rattan (yes the stuff they make furniture with!) and various fruits.  Green Discovery and Boat Landing are doing great work for eco-tourism here in Laos and should be applauded.

It was strange heading to bed so early with 10 to 11 hours of darkness ahead of us.  Our accommodation was a hut with a mud floor and rattan leaf roof, exactly the same as the houses in the village, but maintained by Green Discovery for trekkers (see photo album).  Bed as raised bamboo platform and pigs and other animals rustled and snorted about underneath all through the night to add to the other jungle noises.  After a sumptuous breakfast, day 2 was a two hour walk to the lunch (again prepared by Mr Kang and the 'hairdresser' who'd left early to cook the chickens, banana flower soup, bamboo shoots and chilli sauce over an open bamboo fire).  Immediately afterwards it was a steep 90 minute climb and a further 4 hours back to our very welcome tuk tuk!

Tomorrow (Saturday 11 November) we're off to Luang Prabang so we've had a rather more relaxing last two days around Boat Landing and today took a boat down the Namtha river to visit three ethnic villages - Khmu, Lanten and Black Tai.  Their villages were similar in style to the Akha but much more advanced being closer to town.

Watch this space. Hope everyone is well and keep on coming with the messages - we appreciate them so much. 

E+M xx