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So after the hassle surrounding getting onto the train to Chengdu, we were just happy to make it, even if it was just to an open plan hard sleeper carriage. A good nights rest was needed but we realised that was unlikely when the lights remained on and the music played until late, only to then start up again early in the morning (Sara managed to get by with her ear plugs and eye mask though!) Nonetheless we were hoping that that was all the chaos and bad luck behind us.
Well actually no...it still managed to get worse before it got better. In the haste of leaving Xian, we quickly organised our accommodation and arranged a pick-up which was confirmed by phone. We arrived at the station with no confirmation email (or address), either no battery or credit on our phones and unsurprisingly, no one waiting for us! We knew the name of the hostel but it included the word 'panda'...you mention this name to a taxi driver in Chengdu and when coupled with the language barrier, you are only going to end up at the panda sanctuary! We finally made our own way to the hostel after I somehow managed to charge my phone in a local shop to allow me to update and get the details from an email (at £8/MB :-s). Well doing this I also noticed that I had received an email saying our reserved onward flight from Chengdu was no longer confirmed since the price had gone up, even though I had already paid...aargh!
The hostel were apologetic and gave us a can of coke for our troubles - hardly a win but something I guess. It was apparent that we had also been upgraded 'asian style', with our very own squat toilet!! Oh well at least we were greeted by some common faces who we met in Xian, a German couple (Philipp and Elisa) and a couple from Yorkshire (j-me & il-r-e aka Jamie and Hilary). We would be seeing more of each other throughout the remainder of our time in China.
So the main reason to come to Chengdu is to see the pandas. Prior to our visit I read a review which made me chuckle a bit 'Here is the place to see the endangered animals. Not difficult to figure out in only minutes why they are nearly extinct. Watched a couple of the black and white giant pandas eat bamboo and then tumble over stupidly into their own excrement.' To be fair this is not far from the truth, they are so lethargic and seem so docile.
It was just a surreal experience and I couldn't take them seriously! We made sure we got there early for when they were feeding (as this is when they are most 'active'). However, this looked like it was too much of an effort, to the point where they would just lie down while they ate. After they had finished this strenuous task, they then just about managed to clamber up a tree and fall asleep. However if it is a little humid, they go back to the luxury of an air conditioned cave. It is evident that these comical animals are never going to make it back to the wild which is unfortunate, but it was still an enjoyable experience watching them in this habitat and even made me a little envious of their lifestyle.
We discovered that there is more to do in Chengdu than just admire the pandas (oh there were also red pandas at the sanctuary but the giant black and white variety stole all the lime-light). We went via the old streets on our way to Wenshu Monastery where I couldn't fight the urge to turn down the opportunity to eat some fried tofu littered with chilli seeds - it was rather hot! The highlight though was when a woman made a bee-line for us to get a photograph, we obliged of course, only for her friend to usher Sara out of the photo...what can I say I'm just a magnet! That evening we went to a restaurant and ordered food by pointing at pictures like a 2 year old, which resulted in us getting some very tasty pigeon on a hot plate. It's not the most obscure thing we have eaten to date on our travels, but I can definitely say it's nicer than the sheep brain or the part developed eggs I had in Vietnam!
The next day we went to the people's park. It is quite a random place where you can get your ears cleaned, row a boat in the lake or dance with the locals to a man playing a trumpet. A friendly local tried to accost us into this mass dancing circle by writing 'fun' on the floor, but it was a failed attempt - unlike the chinese who are embarrassed by nothing, this hasn't filtered down into my culture yet, well not without any dutch courage anyway! A group of us that night went to try a szechuan hot pot, which is renown for its spiciness...music to my ears. It was good fun and very sociable, and to my and Philipp's delight not everyone could handle the heat so we were able to lap up the remaining food (which included ducks guts) like dogs nom nom woof!
Of course our time here could not pass without paying a visit to the train station which went smoothly for once thanks to a helpful chinese man pointing us in the right direction. We followed the example of Jamie and Hilary by getting a train to the next city to get a cheaper flight. They weren't happy that our flight turned out to be earlier and at a reduced price, but I think this was karma as I am led to believe that they 'stole' the last room with a western toilet (plus they are northerners so that should be reason enough in itself!)
To end on a funny note, I noticed on this flight that we were the only tourists, hence I was the only one with blonde hair...I regret not trying to get the air hostess to take a picture from the back of the plane, even if it would have made the easiest game ever of 'Where's Wally!'
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