Crossed into France last evening.
Strengthened by the mountains of Spain, we should now be ready for anything France can throw at us by way of hills.
Today's was a long stage, from Hendaye to Orthez. Via-St-Jean-de-Luz (thanks Rob, lovely place), Biarritz and Bayonne. After Bayonne we cycled along the real back roads of france, with the massive river Adour on one side and mile after mile of Kiwi fruit orchards on the other.
Cycling along, we thought back to last night. Did it really happen? Did we really have such a good night?...
After our meal (sole), last night, we were walking back to the hotel when we we're drawn to an annex at the back of small bar, where there was music playing. We went in and found a four piece Irish band playing to just 14 people. We sat down and ordered drinks, boosting the crowd to 16! They comprised an ageing lead guitar/singer who looked like a cross between Frankie Valli and Huckleberry Hound. And three young lads: one bass, one banjo and one percussion. They were excellent. Playing a load of Irish and alternative music. During the interval we spoke to the singer. He told us that they were actually French and that they just acted like Irish. Between each song he addressed the French locals in Irish accented English. I'm sure most of them didn't understand a word. After the break they came on again and played all sorts of things including some Neil Young. By late in the evening and full of wine, we were singing along to great drinking songs like Irish Rover. Great night.
Strange places, frontier towns. They seem to have a unique atmosphere. Probably due to the number of itinerants.
No more pilgrims seen. Great!
Previously, When we'd booked into the Campanile Hotel, I spoke to the stern looking assistant manageress, Sylvie. She gave us a key to our room on the second floor and told us to lock our bikes around the back. She told us NOT to take them up to the room. I wasn't risking it, so when she wasn't looking we carried the two bikes up. So far do good. But after showering and getting ready to go out, we came down and were walking across the car park when I spied Sylvie coming towards us. She fixed me with a really steely glare and said something like (and I kid you not) "Where 'av you pirked those two bokes?" I fixed her with an equally steely stare and retorted "Safe!" and, with that, hurried on past her. I think she got my drift!
Hoping for a quieter night tonight.