Apparently during the war between the Americans and Vietnamese, a tacit agreement was reached in that Hoi An town would be spared the ravages of bombardment. This is why it is reputed to be the only large town that exists the way it does. Where other places have a very functional and modernistic edge to them because they were flatten during the war, Hoi An retains its ambience of a sleeping little fishing village complete with old style architecture.

In the old town, cars are non-existent, the mustard yellow two storey mixed French colonial and fishing village architecture is the order of the day. Hoi An is famous for its seafood dishes and its 500 tailors in town! Not only that, but they make the best beer, bia hiu, we have had on this trip. The beer is delivered daily, freshly made, incredibly refreshing and superbly delicious. And at 4000dong (about 30p) a pint, it makes fantastic drinking. Who can resist such offerings as the heat bounces off the pavements and the riverlet of sweat makes its down between your shoulder blades?

Ing has been to Hoi An before and so she was surprised at the changes that have happened in the four years between this trip and her last one. It is a town that has awoken to the benefits of tourism and so has promoted itself well. As a consequence, more people come spending more money wanting more things to make their trips a little better than some other person. If history has proved one thing right, it is that the Vietnamese are shrewd operators and know how to spot an opportunity.....and exploit it. The town has also been affected the massive typhoon of 2006 that caused considerable damage to the old town and riverside banks. So nature and tourism have led to changes irreversible.

Perhaps the best example is that of the tailors. Select one you like, have a flip through their pages of the catalogues and pictures they have from fashion magazines and houses around the world or even bring your own design, select your fabrics and get measured up. If you come back tomorrow it will all be done. No problem! But leave a little time for a few fittings to make sure that everything was just the way you like it. Once finished, it is wrapped up ready to take home. Otherwise they can airmail back for you! All for about a tenth of the cost it would cost anywhere else (except maybe in India)! After all, what better way to remember a place that is as fantastic as Hoi An, than when you can wear what you had made there? Ing is going to look very hot in what she's got!

But it was a place you could wonder around, whether on your bike or walking, stopping off in little dim cool restos to grab an ice-coffee or bia hiu and just watch the rest of the Hoi An float on by. Sip after sip, bliss upon bliss.

Slumming it on Ing's birthday

We knew that it would be nice to spend a little bit more time in Hoi An because it is a really nice place, where the people are very friendly and welcoming, the weather is fantastic, a beach down the road and the food was excellent. But it also held good memories for Ing of a trip past with friends and so, what a better place to celebrate a birthday?

Phuong Nam hotel was far better than we ever expected; especially after we had walked a mile in the heat of midday to get there. Where all the other places were near or in the old town and slightly more "touristy", our place was north and in the "suburbs". Getting to, and from, town on our bikes was always an adventure and new routes back showed us sights far removed from the tourist trail!

Having made the booking online, the reception staff was expecting us and escorted us to our room. Hmmm, I did expect the deluxe double room to be a little bigger than this with a nicer view of the enclosed pool. Don't get me wrong, this place was an oasis of coolness and modern Vietnamese comfort in a hot day, but I was expecting a little more.

"Could I show you the deluxe villa, sir?" the receptionist did suggest quietly. "For only $10 morea day." Damn she was good. I thought I hid that under my stone faced poker mask. But obviously not!

She led the way and followed her in, took a look and walked right out again.

"Ing, I need to show you this"

When Ing walked in and saw the two rooms of the bedroom and lounge, the two bathrooms, the view of the swimming pool, the huge bed and the size of the bathroom, her eyes lit up! There was no disguising which she preferred! Seeing her eyes, I knew that we would be "slumming it"! How else could you possibly spend a birthday but in a deluxe villa and a swimming pool on your doorstep?