Gallipoli and Ancient Turkey

We have a connection in Munich where we receive a tiny European visa but are still surprised not to go through customs at Istanbul. After I try to jump into the front left hand side of a taxi I make way for our BO oozing cabby. The driver speeds unbelievably but handles the speed of if we were in a movie whilst none of the cars on the road seem to use a single lane or indication. Our first sight of Istanbul is through a bay side park where post sunset, three generations of family are picnicking with wood fired grills, cooking kebabs that smell delicious.

The tours starting hotel is in the centre of the tourist district. Waiters outside restaurants are less pushy and more creative when hawking then those of Cairo. We dine on seafood washed down with EFES beer and later followed by a few varieties of baklava. Our waiter seemed particularly happy we were from Melbourne as his brother lives in Broadmedows and was impressed by the Australian women he ‘meet’ whilst visiting. He gave us happy hour drinks prices but this still would have been well inflated prices. We never returned as we get pointed towards local restaurants not so far away.

In the morning we meet Ali, a newly married southern Turk saving to move out of his in-laws home and his apprentice Frats who has recently had his name tattooed on his forearm in Chinese. They are able to eat during Ramadan as they are traveling and take us to kebab shops sent straight from food heaven. Cordell and Sonya have followed us from our Egypt tour and are bolstered by three more Canadians: Donna and the honeymooners Alberto and Jennifer. Surprising to me the group also has four Japanese students who have been sold the line that Turkey in the melting pot of Asia and Europe, I didn’t see much of an Asian influence. For good measure the tour throws in Matt the Melbournian, Germanic Nicole and Susan from Taiwan. There is the usually getting to know each other and I am a little taken aback by how much Backstreet Boys Yuki has on her iPod.

We head south of Istanbul to the WW1 battleground of Gallipoli where ANZACs fought their first major battle and the supposed birthplace of our countries consciousness. The ‘gentlemanly’ battle with the Turks took heavy causalities on both sides. The Turks victory was also considered pivotal in the countries later struggle for Independence. Reading the graves of the fallen at the infinitely small ANZAC cove I am particularly moved by the grave of a 25 year old. He was from Murchison, a town on the opposite side of the world with barely a bakery and petrol station to call its’ own which I have passed through many times on the back roads between Albury and home. I spent some time wondering if any of his family had ever visited. After having time to wander ANZAC cove, not that you need much, I ask Ali how thousands could fit in the space each ANZAC Day. I take an extra few moments basking in the sunny, smelling only wild rosemary and hearing only the waves, I know I will probably never return.

From Canakkale we head out to the great ruined cities of Troy. If you believe the myth they lay in ruin due to the horse laded with Greek soldiers overcoming the celebrating Trojan guards to open the cities mighty gates. My favourite parts are the rounded entrances to prevent battering rams, the 8m thick city walks and the subterranean pottery grain stores that help feed the besieged Trojans.

We travel onto Ayvalik which is further south on the eastern coast. It has a vibe of a poor-mans Mediterranean holiday destination with an obvious lack of a public cat de-sexing program. It does how provide us with a chance to stay in a family run restored Ottoman house. The next morning I’m awake early and sneak out for a wander. It’s early enough for the store keepers to still be opening and the only people on the street are elderly men sitting around fishing, chatting, chewing sun flower seeds or a combination of these. There is a tangible abundance of national pride with a statue of the countries modern day Father, Ataturk in every square, a red star and crescent flag from every boat, car and vantage point. For good measure a massive billboard with an Ataturkism (should be careful it’s officially against the law to speak ill of him) translating to ‘happy is he who says ‘I am a Turk’’ outside the local military training barrack. Several guards eye ball me as I walk past, water bottle in hand; guarding the recruits in training on their compulsory 6-9 months national service for all Turkish males (optional for females). The next day we have to meet our bus in new location as the car park we had parked in has been semi-sealed off due to an overnight stabbing.

At Selcuk we explore the ancient ruins of the Roman metropolis of Ephesus. In the first and second century AD the city had terrace buildings, hot and cold running taps which could be redirected to regulate the houses temperature, public toilets and a huge library with a tunnel to the local brothel. We even receive a lesson in how to read ancient prostitution adverts. There were even statues of EROS the god of sexual love that was mention with such gusto by Murray and Liz’s wedding celebrant. Ephesus is also famous and visited by of thousands of pilgrims annually to the final residences of Virgin Mary.
The following day we like Cleopatra in her time, visit Pamukkale and its white cliffs of cascading thermal springs. Geologically the site is very interesting but I am more fascinated by plethora of European women posing provocatively against the backdrop of the lime walls or half submerged in pools, striving for the that allusive glamour shot that will make their friend jealous on their return home. Bizarre.

Before our overnight bus back to Istanbul we visit the village of Sirince. Overly touristic we spend our time playing table soccer with Ali and Frats (a monumental comeback from 4-0 to win 5-6 by them), sampling sweetened fruit wine and dodging juice whilst eating softball sized peaches. The overnight bus is ultramodern with personalised touch screens with movies on demand (all in Turkish, I checked every movie as hadn’t seen one in over two months) and free WiFi. I felt that I hadn’t slept but Sonya suggested enviously that I must have for most of the night by the way I had been slumped into the aisle. In Istanbul we swap details with everyone and round up those who are staying a few extra days to catch up again.