Hello all,

When we have now made our way a little further south and are currently in the third largest city in Ecuador, Cuenca. We have had a super time since leaving Quito. After succumbing to the ease of an organised tour we left quito in a minivan, comfortable yet with slightly emptier wallets to Cotopaxi, the highest volcanoe in the world. We met an american professor and english guy also on the tour. The lady Dusty not only spoke fluent spanish but was also a history, geograpghy, biology and nature expert, so we had a very informative tour. Our guide tried hard to speak in English, but it was easier when Dusty translated. We travelled into the national park and stopped to walk and take photos. When then drove up to about 250m below the refuge at 4800m on the volcanoe. It at first appeared an easy climb, yet after only a few steps we were blowing out of our arses. The difference at altitude is incredible and you get dizzy, light headed and your heart pounds like a hammer. After a real struggle we made it up and were pleased to sit and have a spot of lunch and try and catch our breath. The push for the glacier was equally challenging and especially with a full belly. Ruth and I however made it up and stood on the glacier in awe of the breathtaking scenery around us at over 5000m. We had a struggle to find accomodation that night and almost were left on the side of the road. we did eventually however find a lovely hostel, an old pig farm, to rest our weary bodies.

We left early bound for latacunga and the quilatoa loop. Upon closer inspection of our now much hated footprint Ecuador guide we found that entering the loop was fine but exiting required a pre dawn 4 hr bus ride, what fun! We choose a village recommended by one of Ruth?s friends called Chugchilan and were not dissapointed. The views were spectacular and the village somewhat untouched by modern society. The people however were friendly and genuine if not a little bemused by our appearance and desire to hike for hours for fun. The hostal had hommocks and a woodburner and some friendly guests whom we quickly made friends with. In the morning we took an 1.30 hr ride in the back of a truck, sitting on the edge, holding on for dear life. It made it an exhilarating ride winding through perillous ravines,gorges and high mountain passes. We arrived at a spectacular lake in the middle of an old volcanoe. The water was emarald green and the surafce barely moved, the sunshine dazzling the water. We hiked around the edge for 40 minutes taking some fantastic pictures. A steep descent and further 4hr hike through villages, across ravines and through gorges made for an unforgettable day.

The 4am bus beckoned the following morning and bleary eyed and dazed we waited in the deserted town square for the bus driver to wake. After the bus spluttered and spat into leave we boarded for a 4 hr ride in the dark. Needless to say we survived and upon arrival back in Latacunga got straight on a bus to Guaranda, hopefully enjoying spectacular views of another huge volcanoe, Chimbarazo. 2 misty and cloudy hours later we arrived and decided a little economising was the order of the day. So off we went in another truck to what was described as a basic but generally adequate hostal. The name Hostal Acapulco should of in fact rung alarm bells, but we were tough so ventured into our palacial surroundings and explored our 5ft high bathroom with wires hanging out the electric showers. The walls were all adorned with some interesting marks in various shades of brown, but we had stayed in worse. We had travelled down with an american dad and son from Chugchilan and in their lonely planet guide our hostal was described as a rat hole, so they were obviously green with envy. We enjoyed a pleasant stroll around the town and spent over 4hrs in a wonderful cafe, in front of an open fire sipping hot chocolate and coffee.

We slept surprisingtly well that night as we were the only guests, with only Ruth brave enough to face a cold shower that morning. A 2 hr bus to Riobamba and Devils nose railway was in store, a highlight of Ecuador. Upon arrival in Riobamba we found that the station was shut and there had been a labour dispute and no trains were running for how long nobody could tell us. So after a bite to eat we headed back feeling very disappointed to the bus station. 6 long hours on the bus to Cuenca filled the rest of an uneventful day, some nice food in the evening lifting our spirits.

Today we have spent the day meandering through the streets of Cuenca,visiting some cathedrals, sitting in the square watching the world go by and promenading along the river. We head to Loja tomorrow and a 8hr trip from there into Peru.

Hope all is well and we send our love and best wishes,

Greg and Ruth xxxxxxxxxx