Flip flops and sweat drops

Its now been 2 weeks since I arrived in the land of samba and sun. Among all the amazing and grand things I have seen and done in that relatively short time, the two endearing memories I will take with me from this vibrant country are the flip flops and the heat. You have never experienced flip flops until you have been to Brazil. Everyone wears them, from the milkman, to the businessman, the girl in a fancy dress, the beach footballers, the store owners, the cleaners. You can buy the them literally anywhere - the supermarket, the magazine shop on the corner, even at the fruit shop! As I was walking around in my water-proof, gore-tex walking boots, I realised perhaps why they are so popular - any method you have of trying to keep cool must be used... Ever since arriving in Brazil I have been wet... and until last night it hadnt rained at all :-)

Its really not a complaint (yes, I know I have been accused of 'observing' things from a negative perspective before...), its just that you cant get away from it. Its hot after a shower, its hot a night, its hot when you eat, its hot when you do nothing and sit under a fan... Last night, I thought an early night in the air conditioned room at the hostel would be great. As I was brushing my teeth, the entire city went black. Apparently, the first major blackout here since 1998 and it means, obviously, that the air con didnt work!! So, while I was blissfully lying on my bed, in a pool of my own perspiration, I thought I would come to the internet cafe today and share that wonderful story with you all.

Each time I think to myself that I have never sweated this much, I recall the 2.5 hour trek over three mountain ridges on Ilha Grande to get to the Lopes Mendes beach. It is one of the top 10 beaches in all of Brazil - so was it worth the walk? YES YES YES. Surprisingly, I really enjoyed the walk (and the much needed exercise!), but within 2 minutes of being in the sub tropical forest, with temperatures over 30 deg and humidity near 100% everything you own is soaking wet. The clothes I had in my waterproof backpack were even wet... Some great views from the ridges on the walk too - this country and especially that Island has a beauty that is difficult to match. I was trying to think of a more beautiful coastline that I have seen before, and still havent found an answer - even Chapmans peak will struggle with this competition. The beach itself was spectalaur - wide sweeping arc of brilliant white sand (that makes a funny screetching sounds when you walk on it!) meeting pretty turquoise waves, just big enough for a few people to be surfing - the water so clear you can see your feet on the sand. The beach is protected and untouched - there are no buildings, no harbours, no boats, nothing except a few people lying around thinking they are dreaming. Once my video uploads work, you can watch to see for yourself.

Not short of doing things by half measures, we ditched the bus as the pre-planned route for getting to the island, for a day on a boat just floating around the various small islands and sheltered bays. Some snorkeling and swimming helped keep cool in the hot sun and we simply couldnt resist a cold beer or two. We dropped anchor on a small empty beach in the Blue Lagoon, setup the bbq (yes, that should be "braai") and had one of the most memorable lunches of the trip (and trust me, we have eaten a lot!). A few handmade caiprinhas to wash the mouth-watering meat down and a quick dip in the temperate waters to round it all up. We finally arrived in style, parking our boat on the beach, carrying backpacks in knee-high water in the harbour and strolled to our beautiful pousada to recuperate from a rough day.

Ilha Grande was most certainly a highlight of the trip so far. Much like the beach, it is tranquil, peaceful and just a wonderful place to be. No cars are on the island, just some hard sand roads, a collection of pousadas (hotels) and a few nice bars and restaurants. Just about everything you need to survive the hard life of lying around on the beach and drinking cocktails :-) I could easily spend a month there, just lounging and enjoying life. If I did, I would probably end up being Brazilian... We had a great bbq (yes, that should be "braai") on the last night, which went on a little longer than planned. Luckily, we had to leave at 8.45am the next morning, to catch a rocking and swaying boat across the bay to the mainland. Then just a short bus ride (plus mandatory road closures and traffic problems) to the world's party capital. Like the contrast of the green of the peaks and the deep blue of the sea, the contrasts between the Island and the City are profound - the noise, movement, people, cars where a slight shock to the system after unwinding in paradise.

Unlike some of the other places I have been so far, Rio is not so difficult to describe. It is everything you would expect from it - wide-eyed incredible and beautifully set with those recurring spiring green peaks crashing into an emerald blue sea, with picture perfect beaches all around. I heard people say many times on our city tour that this is the most stunning city they have ever seen. The city is tucked in and around the peaks - with over 300 tunnels it is a city of disjointed neighbourhoods, high rise buildings, local beaches and a few unmentionable favelas occupying the high ground. The way, the ONLY way, to see it is from the perch on which Christ the Redeemer watches over it all - Corcavado. From the top, in 40 deg heat, you can see all around the city, the famous neighbourhoods (is that because they are famous or because I know all the football teams?) like Botafogo, Copocabana, Ipanema, Flamengo, the city across the bay - Niteroi. You can see the other major attractions like the Maracana stadium, the Sugar Loaf peak, the cathedral downtown. No other city in the world (that I know of) offers not only so much to see, but such an epic way of seeing it. Similarly, in reverse, wherever you are in Rio you can catch a glimpse of the imposing statue, always looking (intimidating or protecting, depending on your point of view) over the city.

Rio, by reputation, is known for a few simple things. Beaches, skimpy bikinis, caiprinha and partying - perhaps even all at once. As a professional tourist, I have managed to get involved in all of those (nope, no mankini for me!) and I can tell you that those preconceptions are there for a reason - the reason is because they are true! In trying to build a more personal view to each tourist tick box, we found ourselves at the street party in Lapa on Friday night. It was so big, so busy that I thought it was new year or carnival. A party that enormous would only happen in London for an annual celebration, or maybe a world cup win, not just simply a Friday night. We managed to squeeze in with the locals, up a hill, under the acoustics of the curved arches of the acqueduct, dancing (more just listening on my part!) to the samba sounds played out on huge drums, sweating and drinking beer. A great experience and a late night/early morning to make sure that even as a tourist you have touched the beating heart of the city - despite the dire warnings, nothing stolen, noone lost, just a hangover and some unique memories.

I have been here a week now, repeatedly doing the same things. Sweating, drinking and saying goodbye to new friends. Even friends I have made here, have left already. So somehow, this great party city seems a little sad to me - a place where great things ended and, perhaps, were new things will begin.