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Day Three-We are supposed to climb the Santis today!Rumor has it that Santis got snow last night and that it will get more today!We awoke at 0700 and went downstairs to eat breakfast. We dined on bread, Nutella, jam, Appenzell cheese and coffee.Wolfgang joined us for breakfast and after a brief discussion on trails, we headed out the door. The inn, Alps and valley were socked in by fog and low clouds. It was not raining bur the ground was very wet from all of the rain overnight.We climbed the trail to Ebenalp (1644 meters), Altenalp and then climbed our first peak Schafler (1924 meters). Upon our arrival at the Schafler Mountain Hut, we were greeted by the innkeeper who was also from Germany.After a brief discussion about our plans for the day, she discouraged the Schafler approach to Santis as they were expecting more snow and had problems with avalanche conditions the day prior.We decided to press on to Mesmer which was the staring place for two other routes up Santis. The innkeeper warned us of the trail conditions (technical, narrow with cables, ladders and stairs). We assured her that we would be fine and off we went.The trail was as advertised and was complicated by terrible visibility and a fine mist. The fog was thick and the trail was slick, not a good combination when it the trail is narrow and has a 1000 meter drop on either side.We arrived at Mesmer (1614 meters) at were greeted by about 50 goats. The goats were feeding on the grass that was just beginning to peek out of the melting snow.We soon found out that goats like licking the legs of hikers (sweat=salt) even more than grass and they soon began to follow us down the trail to the hut. We passed through the gate, Tim the last through the gate, and the goats blew past the gate and down into the hut area.I need not say how pissed the innkeeper was.Wolfgang, Tim and I began to help herd the goats, clapping, whistling, and carrying goats back past the gates!Pure entertainment!We dined in the hut, I had another bowl of hot onion soup, bread and hot cocoa made from fresh milk.Prior to departing we inquired about the trails to Santis and again we highly discouraged from attempting the trails as it was too early in the season.With a little debate amongst us, we decided to push on towards Meglisalp, the last possible route to Santis. It was now 1300 and it we were getting close to needing t turn back.We set off on the trail and instantly began to climb up a ridge (Murna style).½ way up the ridge we were greeted by more ladders and more rain.The trail was in bad shape and the cables that were in place were partially torn from the wall. We climbed up to the summit of the ridge (approx 2200 meters) and dropped down the other side to Meglisalp (1517) meters.Hiking, we passed a mountain rescue class made up of locals from the region, rappelling down the ridge.Upon our arrival in Meglisalp we were greeted by 3 locals dressed in lederhosen. Wolfgang, translating for us, found out that today was the day that they brought the livestock up from Appenzell (starting at 0300) and placing them in the mountain meadows for the summer. All of the young men were feeling pretty good from the Schnapps that they enjoyed on the trek up the mountains.We found out that this was a pretty special day as it only happens 1 day a year and is a celebration of sorts.We inquired about the route to Santis and we were told that it was passable but that we were out of time unless we stayed at the summit.After a debate, we decided to return to Aescher. (in hind sight we should have pushed on)As we descended into the valley we were greeted with the sounds of Alpenhorns. We hiked down to Lake Seealpsee (1100 meters) where the Alpenhorns were serenading a local wedding. Stopping at a hut in the meadow, Wolfgang asked if Tim and I wanted a drink. We both said yes, expecting a nice frosty Appenzell beer! Instead we ordered milk fresh from the cows grazing all around us. I had chocolate added to mine, Tim had banana. We then climbed back to Aescher (1454 meters). As we arrived at Aescher we were greeted by 30 firefighters that meet annually at the Aescher. All had planned to stay at the 18 bed mountain hut.We dined, laughed and told lies with the group. We sat with locals, none of which spoke any English at that point, Wolfgang translating until a young woman said something in English to me. Soon after, nearly the whole table spoke English including the family and cooks who joined us for beers and spirits. The locals asked if we had ever tried Appenzeller Schnapps. Soon they had bought us a round of this motor oil colored schnapps that supposedly had 40 herbs that were good for the mind and stomach. It tasted like ASS, but was strong!Several more beers later, the cook pulled a jug from the freezer and poured us a shot of something called the "Blind Maker." It was reportedly honey and herbs with a whole lot of alcohol. The cook explained that he was headed to Portland in a few months to meet a friend and then road trip to Baja/Cabo San Lucas. At 3 AM we headed for bed, the room spinning.
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