GOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOODDDD MORNIN' VIETNAAAAAM!!!! (sorry I know it's cheesy but I couldn't resist!!) Well after a change of plans we have hit Hue in Vietnam instead of Cambodia (it was intened I promise - we didn't just get lost) and so far we a loving it! Big change from southern Laos - which ended up being a bit of a mixed bag. Not our favourite part of the trip so far but an experience we're both glad we've had. It's definitely off the beaten track and gives you a proper insight into the 'real' Asia, but with that comes the inevitable mix of emotions that visiting such a poor country brings.

On the one hand we saw some amazing sites, caves that go straight under a mountain, reached by a boat trip through stunning scenery, and ancient temples that resemble a lost city. But on the other hand you are also passing through, and staying in, small villages of huts on stilts with chicken and cattle wandering around and no running water. So its definitely rustic!!

The people aren't used to seeing many tourists, so although many still regard you with friendly curiosity, others are very wary and some clearly just see you as a walking wallet and try to rip you off at every opportunity. The kids that follow you around and wave frantically when you pass them shouting 'hello' make up for it though.

The transportation is also in a world of its own and worthy of comment - the local bus we took from Vientiane in the north bound for Laksao in the East had the passengers worldly belongings piled up in the back seats, and sacks of rice all the way down the aisle. Some passengers were holding their chickens under their arms and one wanted to bring his moped so that went in the aisle too! Then we were dropped off in a small town were we needed to transfer into a song-thaew (a converted pick-up that has a cover over the back and a bench down each side - common transport throughout Laos) which should hold about 10 people - this one however had managed to cram 25 on (several hanging off the back!) 23 of whom were wondering what two 'falangs' (foreigners) were doing on their local taxi!!

So by the time we reached our accommodation near the cave we were ready to crash out on a nice bed in an air-conditioned room...this of course was a pipe dream given we were staying in a local village, so instead I had a grump about the hut we were in - complete with holes in the floor, tatty dusty mosquito nets and a bathroom that was loosely attached to the room in a little annex. Not a happy bunny! But here is where the mixed emotions come in - our accommodation had running water and electricity for a fan, more than can be said for the rest of the village. So I had to wind my neck in!

The caves were definitely worth it - and the boat journey to reach them. We passed water buffalo taking a dip, flying fish darting across the water next to our boat, flame red dragon-flies everywhere and children taking their bath in the river waving at us frantically and trying to swim alongside us. The caves were pretty amazing too - just the sheer scale of them. 3km long, 60m wide in places and 100m high. Also home to the largest cave-dwelling spiders on the planet, but we didn't see any!

We also visited Wat Phou in the south - an old Khmer temple which now resembles a lost city - we were there really early in the morning so had the place to ourselves - quite something.

But now we've hit Vietnam and what a difference! Far more oriental than Thailand or Laos, the first city we have reached is loud, bustling and colourful - and apparently this is one of the most laid back in the country! Can't wait to see what Ho Chi Minh will be like! First though we are off to the beach town of Hoi An for a few days of sunshine. We haven't been to the coast yet in the month we've been away so we're looking forward to being beach bums!

Keep you posted... xxx