So far Cambodia has evoked a range of emotions from the heartwrenching horror of what happened during the Pol Pot regime to the awe and amazement of the Angkor temples. We arrived in Phnom Penh after a long and tedious bus journey across the border from Vietnam including an hour wait for our exit stamp due to corrupt officials accepting bribes! Phnom Penh is a lot bigger than I expected and very busy. We visited the killing fields (86 mass graves) and S21 prison where people were kept before execution. It was extremely distressing. Aside from the huge collection of skulls the thing that got me most was the fact that the dirt paths you were walking on had bones and clothes sticking out of the ground where bodies still had not been excavated. At the prison there were bloodstains on the cell floors and photographs of people who were kept there. Pol Pot was aiming to start society afresh (Year Zero) and in the process exterminated educated people as well as peasants who disagreed with his policy. Estimates of the total number killed vary from 2-3 million. You really notice that there are so few older people around (I have not been able to look into the eyes of anyone above 30 without thinking what they must have been through). On a lighter note Angkor temples were wonderful and I felt very proud for their heritage. We spent 2 twelve hour days (including a 5am sunrise over Angkor Wat) and saw most of the temples. The whole site is 77 square miles. My favorites were Angkor Wat and Ta Prohm where ancient trees have grown up through the buildings. It is like something from Indiana Jones (check out the pictures when they are updated). Siem Reap was a great place with a cool vibe. We made an effort to drink in local bars on a couple of occasions and found Cambodian people to be really friendly. We are back in Phnom Penh now ready to go to Kampot tomorrow. Very few tourists go and we have to take a local minivan so it should be good to get off the beaten track. From there we go to the beach resort of Sihanoukville before crossing back into Thailand to meet my brother who begins his year out. We are well but very tired at the minute due to lots of early starts and long days (another one tomorrow). Travelling is a lot harder than you would think especially if you are on the move. Looking forward to chilling for a week or so in Thailand. Hope everyone is well at home. Xx