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13.52pm Tuesday 22nd August 2017 is or was stamped on my ticket to officially park on Santa Monica Pier, the end point of Route 66 for Westward bound travellers since 1926.
My last blog left us wondering did route 66 finish at that End sign in Texas, well having travelled an additional 1300kms passing the States of New Mexico, Arizona and now into California proved that a myth.
I must admit that after those great experiences around the start of Route 66 in Chicago I had become numbed to the concept that Route 66 really meant getting on I-40 and hammering it home to the pier.
With a large distance still to travel that seemed like a wasted effort but to complete this part of Taking the Indian home it was necessary. However I soon was able to gain from local tourist centres the real journey was still to come with the promise of not only the longest surviving uninterupted stretch of 66 still surving but also a desert run of some 208kms with virtually only a crossover of I-40 needed and the prospect of truely spectatular scenery and more great folk to discuss politics and perhaps even participate in watching the total eclipse on last Monday 21st August 2017.
I was hammered Sunday with a strong wind, very heavy rain and lightning that caused a partial whiteout of the road in front as well as deafning thunder claps that penetrated my helmet. That was not good and for some unknown reason my wet weather gear was not to be found!
Covered up as best I could by 2pm I had decided it was not only unpleasant to ride but scenery was blotted out but more importantly after the third whiteout it was unsafe to continue so I decided to push on for another 160kms and try to reach Williams Arizona as a nights resting spot.
By 3pm, well if the weather was hammering me I replied and hammered the Indian westward, Williams city limits were reached and they had 34 motels. I checked one it was $169.95 plus tx so back on the Indian to the next one $129.95 I asked why well he replied we are the closest town to the Grand canyon, I interrupted as i left , so you can rip the tourists off. He called out it is a two hour ride to the next town hope you enjoy, well I tried to wave him Good bye but being cold only one finger raised its prescence.
I saw the tourist centre so called in and bluntly said if you want my tourist accommodation find me a reasonable priced motel with heated indoor pool, WiFi, parking and a hot breakfast. No problem Sir, true to her word 15minutes later I was warm in my room at the Howard Johnson for $62.95 with Tx.
After washing well they were wet anyway so why not complete the old shampoo trick and have partaken of both the indoor pool and the 40oC hot tub I was walking back to my room having heard a number of motorcycles arrive when I noticed a fellow looking at the Indian smug in the only undercover park at the motel. He was still in his wet riding gear and a black well at least a dozen black Harleys sat out in the still heavy rain. I walked over and said guess Indian's get preference over Harley's being the senior US motorcycle. I knew he was too cold to react in any other manner then a grunt, but instead he said look mate that bikes registered in my home state in Australia! Bet you dont see many plates like that over here?
I had to bring hime back to earth,its mine i replied. he looked and said what did you say? It's mine mate.
Well if embrassement could kill he was dead, he had missed my Aussie accent entirely.
It turned out the whole group of 24 had hired Harley's and under guidance (He siad he only was covering costs) of another Aussie they were on a two week trip riding the West of the USA, such as the Yosmite National Park, Grand Canyon etc. Appartently this fellow does about 3 trips annually including Nepal,Bali and the US.
Later that night they offered me a lift in their support vehicle (well they were riding Harley's) to dinner with them. As the rain had stopped by the time dinner was over I declined the lift home and instead spent the next two hours exploring the sights and shops of downtown Williams, the last town to be by passed by I-40 in the 1984 and thus the last set of traffic lights were now longer on the interstate from Chicago to California. Try missing them in LA, ye sthey do have traffic lights before you reach Santa Monica.
The next morning true to form I rode again down the main St of Williams and ignored Tom Tom as he pleaded to turn right hit the interstate! I was just about to hit dirt when a small sign directed me into the town councils works depot to a small door that appeared closed but a handwritten hours sign said OPEN 8am-4pm seven days. It was after 8 so on my second attempt I got the door to open and met the local tourist information officer. We have a great Route 66 museum with free admission she pleaded. No I really am running late with the rain yesterday and just wanted to know if Route 66 was the dirt road out front. She grabbed a nice simple map Sir we have the longest remaing stretch of Old Historic 66. Hiow do I find it I asked, Just drive to the end of the Shire yard and at the stop sign get on I-40? Then 5 miles out take the clearly marked exit and really cruise old 66. Sir the museum will only take a few minutes and our gift shop or donations are the only support we get.
I did the museum and yes it was worthwhile even shopped the gift shop and also made a donation shows good service is rewarded.
As I was putting my helmet on I thought she said Öld 66 is actually in better condition then the Interstate with all the construction that's going on" I was actually glad when the exit came up 5 miles down the track as yes the interstate was down to one lane and quite rough in many places , as I swung onto Old Historic 66 a smooth scenic two lane by way running along side farms and range country with very little traffic and a 110km speed limit again 115 on I-40.
A small town with the usual array of Route 66 relics appeared and I almost passed trying to make up time until I saw a few old motorbikes as decoration at one shop, a quick application of the front brakes a U turn and yes an early Suzuki Trail bike , a BSA 250 & a early Cushman scooter all photograped I wandered into the shop and in the back rooms a motorcycle & car museum all free. I snapped away then having a cursery glance at what is usually the same Route 66 souveniors (but many are Proudly USA made!) I saw a metal sign A Route 66 sign with Indian on it. Totally unlike anyother repo stuff I had seen. Gee I thought wouldn't that just be the icing on the trip to have that on the wall next to where the Indian is parked. Must be some room, I will make room! So sign in hand I wandered up to pay. The lady grabbed me and said more bikes out the back, my husband collects & restores them, one day he hopes to go to The Isle of Man, have you ever heard about that place? Over an hour later I left the shop the Indian sign a grateful gift to the Aussie fountain of knowledge and a promise to remain in touch and maybe a reunion in 2018 at IOM.
This adventure has so many untold stories of the people I have met, the sights I have seen and the stories that are told so lets fast forward to the out skirts well 100kms of Los Angeles, I had to eventaully hit the interstae as it has covered up 66 in downtown LA and remember it is the Main Street of the USA so I was soon on 8-10 lanes of stop start LA traffic. It was similiar to the other cities one minute you are literally doing 100-120 and then the whole road comes to an abrupt stop then crawls then just as suddenly it's back over 110kms. One really need sto concentrate and for that reason plus the emergency only stops on the Interstate very few photo's can be taken. I was moving briskly when again traffic slowed and the overhead signage said Interstate finishes and we were funnelled up a hill and before I knew it there was Santa Monica! I looked hurriedly and picked a lane that said downtown & pier seemed very other car was trying to do the same also. The next sign siad parking lot at pier full turn left or right only. (the pier was straight ahead)
The traffic was frequently totlly stopped so I seized the opportunity to step off the Indian and grab the cramera and take the pier in the background that might be all I would get?
I paused and let a Mustang in about three cars from the Pier gaining more time to take a photograph musch to the displeasure of the young lady in the VW behind me, but noone was going anywhere soon. I chatted to the Mustang driver who like me wanted to complete 66 so we just drove straight ahead ignoring the stop sign and were soon on the Pier. I saw the end sign and the tow away sign and the No Parking/No stopping signs so just stopped, got off wandered into the roadway and took my happy snaps! There were lots of parking people and one lady even said,"We know what you people go through to complete Route 66 so we don't care but look out for the Police they have a totally different opinion."
I thought that was nice of her and looks like a few parks inside I will try so fronting up to the toll booth the same lady met me and came outside saying NO,No but just a minute I will trip it for you on the OUTSIDE barrier that done I drove inside with a manually written ticket. Those parkng spots wonder why right at the front- NO PAQRKING POLICE USE ONLY.
Heading her advise I found somewhere else to park and enjoy the carnival atmosphere while enjoying a real Hot Chai Tea and freshly baked Custard bagel.
Gladly paying $3 for the hour's park I reset Tom Tom to the bike shipping agents and againt steeled up to do battle with 42kms of LA traffic including Toll Roads which Tom Tom said was impossible to avoid.
When I reached the end of the pier I had indeed had a dream run as the Stop sign was now a series of barricades making entry impossible. I guess too many people like me ignored the stop sign, but actually they were many vacant spots in the parking area. I also noted Police on pushbikes sitting under the trees in the shade. Then I realised what they were doing as cars paused at the barricades deciding to turn left or right a Policeman would quickly peddle out with a mobile camera photograph them in the No standing Zone then as they moved off other Police would step out of the shade and ticket them, really a money raising effort as most people I would guess were tourists who quite literally had arrived and needed to do a change of plans when no parking was available. This was in complete contrast to what happened next. The roads I wanted to travel were chocked so like all good motorcyclists we attempt to clear the congestion by lane splitting and using the car pool lane (legal in California). I hung back at one point when I noticed a State Trooper car in my way, the bikes behind overtook me and blasted past at some 120kms an hour and so what was I to do-blat- and I too was past but its a strange feeling lane splitting still at 100kph when all lanes are stationary. Most cars and trucks will move to the left when they see a motorbike coming from behind even in the one lane car pool lane. Just maybe they have seen the European slogan- Bikes go fast let them past!
I made the bike shippers before they closed, checked out the drop off arrangements for tomorrow, found my Motel,washed the bike, had tea and booked an international flight for tomorrow afternoon to Canada.
Total costs of the day Fuel $11.45,parking $3, three meals $10.40, International flight (1450kms 4hrs) $245 and people ask How can you afford these holidays!
- comments
Greglane Fantastic blog Chris. Great to see you have realised your dreams of touring the USA by motorcycle.
Christopher Yes thought after not coming with you and Kerrie it wouldnt happen and now it has. A really enjoyable encounter with both natural and cultural aspects of the USA from a motorcyclists point of view. Would love a return visit
Merriltn Yes it is cheep over there. Lots of traffic in Los Angeles. You have good tmes at musems.
Laura Hi Christopher, Just found this blog , missed you posting it , need to give it a good read before comment. just great to fill my house bound weekend....
Laura Wet weather gear must be shy little things....seems they always run and hide the minute it starts to rain......one of a Bikers delamers ... ....