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Unbelievable. We have made it to Vietnam.
The past few weeks have gone mind-bogglingly fast and it really has felt like there has been not a second to spare. Over Easter, it was a sad farewell to 1409 and those farewells just kept on coming. We moved from our old apartment back in to Urban Central, a hostel that had been my second home during my time in Australia.Never the same, we put our heads down and focused on collecting those last few dollars and saying goodbye to a place, and the people, that had been so good to us.
Our last few days were largely spent hungover, as we bid farewell to the many classic Melbourne joints that we had frequented throughout our time here - notably our local on the Yarra, Bear Brass. It was an emotional goodbye to a place that had looked after me since my arrival way back in 2008, but with its makeover around the corner, the time was right.
A huge cull was also required, as flight regulations forced us to whittle our lives down to 20kg.This was not so much of an effort for me - more so the other half. The last time we weighed Chloe's luggage it was bordering on double that, so hats must be tipped to her for shedding more weight than a welterweight boxer gearing up for a Championship bout.
Following one last hootenanny with our closest pals, yesterday was the day that we had spent the past four months preparing for.We were escorted in style to the airport thanks to Shaneo and his fine specimen of a motor and having bid adieu to him, it was time to call time on my stay Down Under.In an incredibly strange way though, I was not sad - it felt so right.Since I had been over there, I had seen so many changes, so many faces, and so many places.People came and went, seasons chopped and changed, and lifestyles moulded themselves in to these.Now it was my time to move with the flow.
We made our way across the Outback and in to Asia, before dropping in on Singapore for a quick bite to eat. From there, we were shuffled in to a tiny 'one size fits all' plane for the journey in to the humid heat trap that is Saigon.As we came in to touch down at Tan Son Nhat Airport, night had descended, and we were greeted with a beautiful fly-over of the neon metropolis that lay below us.
Following a relatively straight forward (if not seemingly unnecessary) visa acquirement, we took our first steps on to Vietnamese soil and BOY! Was it hot!Having left behind a frosty, freezing Melbourne just that morning, it was as refreshing as it was hindering.
As a note; if you ever fancy visiting Vietnam, as long as you have your pre-approved Visa letter, a few photos, and $25USD (for a one-off visit) you will be fine. It is a tad annoying to have to deal with after a long-haul flight as you are made to sit around whilst your luggage rotates on the conveyer helplessly, but that's about it.Coincidentally, as we sat waiting, three other backpackers turned up without having applied for their visas before arrival. They were forced to hand over their passports until everything was confirmed, but as it was so late, this was not to be until the morning.They were allowed in however, and told to remain in their hotel, and return in the morning. Strange.
I had arranged for the hotel to collect us from the airport and we were whisked through the carnage that is Saigon's streets to our room. From this ride alone, it was evidently apparent - we would be seeing a fair few motorcycles during our time here!Thousands of motorcycles whizzed and weaved around us, seemingly oblivious to the downright anarchic system that was in place on their roads. You have to hand it to them though.. it works. More on this later.
Having checked in and dumped our load (not in that way) upstairs, we went for a brisk wander.It was around midnight by now and the streets were still throbbing with activity, people sat in every corner and crevasse visible.Motorcycles beeped there way through the network of one-way streets and every one of our senses was being heightened from everything in front of us.We played it safe and stuck to our road, settling for a few beers in a smart-looking restaurant with an outdoor court yard.We were greeted, seated, watered, and cleaned - all for $2 a beer. Nice.
Today was our first proper taste of what Saigon had to offer.We woke four minutes before the free breakfast ended so took our time and planned out our first little adventure.I had purchased an iPod Touch just a week or so ago and utilising the various apps and maps available, we felt ready to take a wander around and let the whole lot seep in to us. Before we could even contemplate getting anywhere however, it was time to learn how to cross the road.We had read many articles advising us to be slow and steady and that the mass of bikes would swish by like a well-organised school of fish.That we did, and that they did. It is truly a remarkable system that is in place on Viet roads, but this organised chaos really does work. Every single rider seems so tuned in to what is around them, and there is not a sniff of road rage anywhere. Western drivers could learn a lot from these guys!
Our first port call of call was to be Ben Thanh Market for breakfast.Ben Thanh is the central hub of Ho Chi Minh City. It is one of the earliest surviving structures in Saigon, and despite much repair work throughout the years, still retains its historical feel.The entire place bustles with activity, pouring out on the surrounding streets.There are people literally everywhere, from street beggars with missing limbs to chatty men lugging dozens of sunglasses around with them, flexing their basic English skills to encourage a purchase.Inside it is bedlum - tiny corridors of stalls stocking everything you could ever imagine, satisfying the needs of locals and tourists alike.From knock-off Prada bags to live eel, they have it all.Similar stalls are grouped tightly together, with hoards of Vietnamese women tugging on sleeves and waving calculators around in a frantic, and often desperate, attempt to sell.It is as charming as frustrating, especially for poor Chloe.She daren't glance at a bag without being swarmed by shop-tenders, each shovelling as many goods in to her face as they can muster.Saying all that, if you can handle a good haggle and enjoy the buzz of what a truly unique experience it is, it is a joy to behold.
Following the chaos of the market, we decided to head to another Vietnamese landmark - Reunification Palace.Originally constructed in 1873 by the French, it was home to the South Vietnamese government during the Vietnam War.In 1965 it was rebuilt following a failed assassination attempt on Diem by two rebel bomber pilots, bringing with it a more communist design.On 30th April 1975, two tanks bulldozed their way through the main gates and ended nearly 20 years of battle and bloodshed.Time has stood still here ever since.As we wandered through the many levels of this grand Communist palace, it was difficult to comprehend the enormity of importance it, and the events that unfolded, had on modern day Vietnam. Each room seemed to carry such a huge level of importance - from the Credentials Presentation Room to the War Room of the President.However, it is what lies in the basement that truly indicates just how embedded in war this nation was.Tiny, narrow corridors link dozens of communication rooms - each feeding back to the Command Room, where President Ngo Dinh Diem and his assailants would plan their next move.Still hanging from the walls are maps of Vietnam and its Asian neighbours, covered in markings, each indicating various bloody battles. They are as exact as they were thirty-six years ago.
Having stopped off for a refreshing guava & coconut juice to contemplate what we had just visited, we wandered back to our hotel and really put to test our new found skills in crossing the road - it was rush hour.Now, Saigon buzzes to the sound of horns and motors at the best of times but this was truly something else.Absolute hoards of people were stacked up at traffic lights, ready to fling themselves in to the chaotic junction that lay ahead.We had confidence in ourselves though and we calmly and assuredly made our way safely back home.
We headed out for dinner later that evening to Niet Ban, a café/bar I had read many good things about.Unfortunately, despite the beautiful stepping-stone entrance over Koi ponds and the elegant, traditional furniture, the kitchen had closed.As the waitress knew about as much English as a new born baby, I popped over to an American man that had greeted us on arrival to ask for recommendations in the area.After a brief chat about my teaching plans for Vietnam, he introduced himself - the Head Principal of an English Institute who were currently recruiting for the new school year.I couldn't believe my fortune - the first person I had had a genuine conversation with since I had arrived and he was offering me an interview first thing in the morning!I took his business card and wandered off trying to contemplate what had just happened.It was incredibly bittersweet, as despite the unbelievably good fortune, I really wasn't looking to find a job in Saigon and certainly was not in the right head space to start discussing contracts and wages.
After dinner, we returned back to the hotel - incredibly tired.Following a good chat with the missus, I decided to email the principal and decline his kind offer of an interview.I would've loved to have gone through the process purely for practice, but the feeling I took from him was that he wanted results - something I couldn't offer him.For now though, it is time to focus on tomorrow and the things we have come to see and do.
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