Have you got a cup of tea with you? Have you been to the toilet? Because we got up to so much in the South Island that this is going to take some time. So if you have been fed and watered I will begin...

After a couple of choppy hours on the Cook Strait we arrived in Picton with the contents of my stomach still in tact, just. My sea legs are good but for the first time in my life I was plagued with sea sickness for the ferry crossing much to Ashleigh's amusement. To think that I am a son of a sailor and a few hours at sea had turned my stomach, "Wait till you Da hears about this" Ashleigh would say as I turned green around the gills. But I was pleased that I didn't have to make use of the paper sick bags that covered every inch of the ferry and held on until we reached dry land and drove off the ferry at Picton. We didn't hang about and were on the road heading south along the road that hugs the coastline towards Kaikoura. If we thought that the North Island was beautiful, along comes her better looking sister South Island and knocks us completely off our feet. The drive along one of the most dramatic coastlines we have seen yet took us a few hours and all we could say to each other was "WOW!". It is everything that Great Ocean Road should be and more. One moment you are driving along beside the aqua blue ocean and the next beside plant covered mountains. What a brilliant taste of what the South Island would have in store for us visually. We arrived in Kaikoura after dark and found a camp site in the city centre and were excited for the prospects of the next day. We woke early to make our way to the Whale Watch Kaikoura offices for opening to see if we could secure a spot on one of their morning tours. On our way there we had to stop and take in the scenery before us, it was 7am and the sky was crystal clear. In the distance snow capped mountains dominated the horizon and were an amazing contrast to the baby blue morning sky.

We managed to get a place on the Whale watching tour for 10pm due to a family not showing up so our luck was in. The company itself offer an 80% refund if no whales are spotted that day so it seemed like a pretty good deal. We set off on the bus not sure of what we would see and soon were at the boat that would take us out to sea in search of some Sperm Whales. Thankfully the sea sickness left me well alone and I wish I could say the same for the poor Japanese bloke who sat opposite us who spent the whole trip with his head inside a paper bag. We travelled about 50 nautical miles out to sea as we watched an excellent computer generated animation that provided an imaginative view of the geography and depth of the Kaikoura Canyon that we were sailing on and the wildlife within the area. On our way out to sea we saw Fur Seals swimming and jumping out of the water alongside the ship and massive Albatrosses gliding along on the breeze with ease. After a while the spotter alerted the captain of a group of Sperm Whales that had been sighted only a few nautical miles ahead of our ship. We made our way outside and onto the rooftop of the ship as we cruised up just behind the whales and we were amazed at the size and how close we were to these huge creatures of the sea. Two huge whales were on the surface together breathing and throwing blasts of water upwards out of their blow holes. They surface to breath for around 5 minutes before diving to the deep for around 2 hours before they have to return to the surface for air. These two whales were huge, one around 20 metres in length and the other around 15 metres and we were within spitting distance of them. After a few minutes they both raised the tops of their heads up out of the water looking like a couple of surfacing submarines and the spotter made us aware that this was a sign that they were going to dive. After watching a dark flesh coloured arch in the water for a few seconds, their tails flicked up and out of the water one by one before sinking slowly down into the sea. Magic. It is rare to see whales surfaced together so we were lucky to see it. It wasn't long until another whale was spotted in the distance by the white mist that was blown out of its blow hole and again we got to watch it swimming majestically until it dove to the depths of the sea. All together we saw four sperm whales and there we were hoping that we would at least see one at the beginning of the day. To round off our trip, on the way back to shore our boat was met by a pod of friendly playful Husky Dolphins that were more than happy to swim beside our ship and jump out of the water for the photograph hungry tourists.

As we left the ship one of the guides informed us of a seal colony that inhabited one of the Kaikoura coast lines and once back at the office we were back in Bertha and drove down the road for some fur seal action. As we stepped out into the car park we were instantly met by a group of seals lazily soaking up the sun on a set of rocks. A short walk down the coast and onto the pebble beach and you are met by an army of seals lying round like a bunch of beach bum couch potatoes, only moving to make a snarl if they think you are getting a bit to close. We kept a respectful distance as they are wild animals after all but again we were sat within spitting distance to these adorable inquisitive fat bodies. We found it hard pulling ourselves away from the colony as they were great to watch as they lazed about on rocks scratching their fat arse's with their flippers and slowly making their way up the beach like a drunken uncle trying to dance the caterpillar at a family party. After filling our bellies with a plate of BBQ seafood on the coast we felt like we had one of our best days travelling to date and it was only 1pm so we got on the move while the going was good and hit the road towards Lake Tekapo. We pulled up to the lake after a four and a half hour drive and what a view we pulled up to. The sky was clear, the lake was still and the snow capped mountains reflected in the lake perfectly just like that line from Forrest Gump "...It was so clear , Jennny, it looked like there were two skies one on top of the other..." What a way to finish off our day, we spent nearly an hour by the waters edge looking at the postcard views and with the water being so still I had to disturb it. Finding the biggest rock I could lift and throw I launched it into the air and out into the lake and as it hit the water with a deep splosh, we watched as the ripples seemed to spread out across the whole lake.

The next morning we set off towards Lake Pukaki and like Lake Tekapo the views were like watching a movie and it was hard to take in that we were seeing these things with our own eyes. After sitting down to absorb it all for 20 minutes or so and after hurling another fat rock into the lake we drove toward New Zealand's highest peaked mountain Mount Cook. Even though no filming was done in this area, it still looks like a scene lifted directly from the Lord of the Rings series. I know I keep harping on about sights and views being breathtaking but it is really hard to play down how good they are. Pulling into Mount Cook Village for lunch and having a walk about it is easy to get a pain in the neck as you look skyward all the time. You are surrounded by a choir of 19 mountain peaks that are all over 3000 metres high. But time was moving on and we had another destination in mind and we pulled into Oamaru on the south east coast after a few hours drive. We had arrived in time for a spot of penguin spotting down on the coastline of Bushy Beach. The Yellow-eyed penguins come back into land from a days fishing out at sea around an hour before dusk and after sitting in a hide, high up in the cliffs in the cold wind for 45 minutes, we were rewarded with the sight of a little chap making his way out of the water and waddling it's way up the beach and into it's burrow in the shrub and bush that surround the base of the cliffs. They were hard to spot especially considering that you are in the hide around 300 metres away from the beach but once you spotted the penguins it was hard to lose them. After an hour we had seen three penguins returning to their burrows and we were happy with that as we chatted to the guy who ran the penguin tours afterward to be told at that time of year he said you would be lucky to see seven penguins over a couple of hours. We could have opted to pay for a guided tour but you are not guaranteed that you will see anything so sometimes its best doing a spot of travelling DIY. With the wildlife viewing count stacking up at a phenomenal rate we headed back to our camp site with Ash making penguin noises all the way back. The Morning of the 23rd we were up early once again to make the most of our day. Driving south towards Dunedin we stopped 30 minutes down the road at Moeraki to take a look around the beach and it's Moeraki Boulders, think a smaller version of Australia's Devils Marbles but by the seaside. These strange spherical boulders litter the beach and look like a man made collection. Maori legend has it that these boulder are gift from the gods, they are te kai hinaki, food baskets and sweet potatoes. But science has determined that they are septarian concretions that have been left behind from the eroded coastal cliffs. If you look at them closely where they have cracked and split in half they look like a rock version of a gob stopper, as layer upon layer of compressed rock sit on top of one another. After a good climb around and on the boulders we knocked the sand out of our shoes and headed south to Dunedin.

We were going to Dunedin for a couple of reasons that consisted of drinking beer, watching rugby and drinking beer. We had tickets to watch England take on Romania the next day that just so happened to be on my birthday but the night before was spent in a rugby club near to our camp site, having a few pre birthday drinks with a group of English that we had met in our camp site. Two blokes in particular called Mark and Colin were a right laugh. Think Max and Paddy and your somewhere close and they had us in stitches all night long with their daft uncle style jokes. But I cant go into much detail as Mark and Colin were rather generous when it came to getting the drinks in resulting in a bit of memory loss towards the end of the night. The next morning we both woke feeling like a bag of hammers and it took us a good few hours to pull ourselves together. But it was my second birthday away from home and Ashleigh made it as special as ever for me, even if she did put photographs of what I looked like severely hungover, in my underpants, lying on my back unable to move in our van, on the internet for all the world to see. A beautiful image I'm sure you'll agree. After some bacon and eggs and a strong cup of tea we were ready to face the world. Now we all know that English fans are the best fan in the world so we had to look the part. On went the St Georges Cross face paint, followed by a white afro wig for me and a red bob cut wig for Ash and to finish off our fans-formation St Georges Cross capes and flags. Looking the part we were ready to join the masses and as we hopped on the bus that would take us into the city centre a cheer went up from the English fans and one shouted "You could have made an effort mate!" The centre is called the Octagon and pubs run along the edges of it. These were full of the barmy army that were all in good voice and spirits. Each and everyone of them wearing the red and white of St George or wearing a flag or with faces painted. We walked into one bar and there stood Mark and Colin wearing Roman helmets. I don't know how they recognised us but a cheer went up, they wished me happy birthday, got the drinks in and said "You two last night, you should have seen what you were up to" then they wouldn't tell us what we had done. Bloody wind up merchants. It turns out that they had just been interviewed by Sky TV for the pre match build up and they had to do three takes as they were just mucking about all the time and spoiling the shots. After sinking a few beers, we made our way to the Otago Stadium and even the persistent rain could not dampen our spirits. Taking our seats, we had a fantastic view of the pitch and we knew straight away that a good night was in store. As the teams took to the pitch a monstrous roar echoed around the ground and once the English national anthem started every Englishman was signing in fine voice. From start to finish we dominated the game and we nearly lost our voices from cheering and shouting so much. 'Swing low sweet chariot' echoed around our ears for days afterwards and we loved the atmosphere inside the stadium. It was a promising sign that England could play some classy rugby and win games with confidence and skill. On a high from the win we had arranged to meet up with Mark and Colin for drinks in a local rugby club near by and also catch the All Blacks-France game. After walking in the rain for an hour we arrived at a grave yard and gave up the search for the mystery rugby club so walking for another half an hour we made our way back to the Octagon and caught the game at the fan zone that was packed with Kiwis. Amongst a sea of black shirts me and Ash stood with full England attire and enjoyed another display of rugby brilliance. After the game we made our way to the bars we had visited before to find that the place was in full swing with England fans having a good old knees up. We danced and drank the night away with a couple dressed as English Roses and also Four Knights of the round table. You have got to love England fans.

My first hangover as a 28 year old was hopefully the worst one I will ever have as a 28 year old. We both had a bit too much of a good time and were paying the price for it but what a night we had. After a shower and a bit of scran we were ready to hit the road once again as a nice scenic drive was what we needed to blow the cobwebs away, so taking our time we made our way west to Te Anau and spent the night recovering from the night before. Te Anau is used as a platform for the drive up towards Milford Sound and fully recovered from my birthday shenanigans we set off for a day of driving. The 119km trip along Milford Road into the heart of Fiordland National Park and Milford Sound is something that is on everybody's lips that you meet in the South Island "Have you been to Milford Sound yet? You have to do it" and how right they all are. If nature is your religion then a trip to Milford Sounds is nothing short of divine. Luckily we had clear blue skies and as you drive along the shores from Te Anau, you can take in the sights of Lake Te Anau before heading in land and in no time at all the Earl Mountains begin to dominate the skyline. You emerge into a valley that has stunning views towards the mountains and as you continue along the road you encounter the Mirror Lakes. This is a small body of water overlooking the Earl Mountain Range and was our favourite part of the drive along Milford Road. As the name suggests you are able to capture the scene twice in the same photograph as the mountains are a perfect mirror images of each other on the reflection of the water. We were blown away with the clarity of the reflections of the mountains in the lakes. Some thing's money cant buy and a view like this is one of them. We continued driving along the Milford Road and stopped off at the Falls Creek Lookout to take in the views looking down on the Hollyford Valley that was a lush quiet serenity. Back on the main road, the road begins to close in on both sides as you begin the ascent up to the Homer Tunnel. The Homer Tunnel is 1200 metre length tunnel dug out of a mountain that drops down or upward on a steep gradient depending on which side of the road you are driving on. It is pitch black as you enter and the only light in the tunnel comes from your headlights and the road markings. It was a bizarre, exciting and a little bit of a scary experience driving through it but we crawled along at a steady pace as the tunnel didn't seem wide enough to allow oncoming traffic by. Once out of the tunnel you drive along the winding roads of the Cleddau Canyon and you notice rainwater cascades running down the canyon walls like small waterfalls. These eventually run into creeks that then steadily form the Cleddau River. Here there is a walk taking you through the woods to the Chasm. It is more waterfall than river as over millions of years the water has sculpted round shapes and basins in the rock that the water flows and falls through. Another mesmerising thing to watch. When we got back to the van we noticed some Kea flying about. Kea are native mountain parrots and they are well know for sheer vandalism of cars by striping plastic from wing mirrors or anything else they can pull off with their beaks. So not wanting to pay for any repair to our rental vehicle we decide to avoid the Kea's attention and drove the final five minutes up the road to Milford Sound. Milford Sound is a beautiful place and as beautiful as other lakes that we had seen so far but the drive along Milford Road seemed better than Milford Sound itself. We spent an hour or so looking around and could have spent a lot more time there if we had it to spare. The best part is, there is only one road into Milford Sound and one road out so we got to see all the great sights over again on our way back out on the road that would eventually lead us to Queenstown.

Known as the adrenaline adventure capital of the world, Queenstown has a lot more to offer than just stunning scenery. With beautiful views along Lake Wakatipu as you drive in, in the distance a bustling city is dwarfed by the surrounding mountain ranges. By the time we got to Queenstown we were starving and we needed something to eat as soon as possible. After finding a camp site we flicked through some information books and something grabbed my eye 'Hungry? Like Pizza? Try New Zealand's biggest pizza. The FAT BADGER! 20" of pizza heaven!" SOLD!!! So with mouths dripping with saliva we made our way to the World Bar, the home of the fat badger. It is a groovy little place. It was like Tim Burton and Lewis Carroll got together and opened a pub. Drinks served in teapots, wood stoves that looked like metal monsters and a giant moose head on the wall with googly eyes and a cheesy grin. We orders our fat badger and cleared our table ready for the monster pizza's arrival. When it came it only just fit on the table. 20 inches of meat, cheese, tomato, onions and mushrooms defeated us after having three slices each, a valiant effort considering that each slice was the size of a piece of A4 paper. But two slices had to be bagged up for our dinner the next day as our bellies were about to burst. With our craving for pizza being met for a good while to come we headed back to the camp site to book up some blood pumping adrenaline activities for the following day. The thing is with Queenstown there is over 150 different adrenaline inducing activities to choose from. We booked up for a spot of paragliding that would have launched us off Coronet Peak 3000ft up but after a morning of waiting about for the weather report, we were told we wouldn't be able to paraglide that day due to the strong winds. We were offered a spot for the next day but we did not have time to spare so a refund was our only option. Well at least we got to eat New Zealand's biggest pizza whilst we were there. Every cloud and that. We promised to ourselves that the money we saved in Queenstown would be put to good use elsewhere on other activities that would end up being out of this world.

So putting aside our paragliding woes we drove to Franz Josef, famous for the Franz Josef Glacier and the Fox Glacier that is just down the road. Driving past the geordie-esq named Lake Hawea we couldn't help putting on our best geordie accents and saying "LAKE HA-WAY" sounding like Jeff from Byker Grove. Driving through the northern part of Mount Aspiring National Park, past Hast and along the coast to Mount Cook National Park and Westland National Park was one of the greatest drives we have done to date. It was beautiful and really fun to drive, Jeremy Clarkson would have a ball here. As the roads wound up and down, left and right it was like playing on Colin McRae rally. Imagine you dropped a handful of spaghetti onto a plate from a height and that's what the roads were like winding tightly up and down the mountainsides and along the coastlines. Driving through the 'toy town' like Fox Glacier we continued up towards Franz Josef, the larger and more active of the two towns. After finding a camp site and the best things to do whilst we were in the area, we bedded down for the night ready for the next day. We had our first lie in in a long time and after lunch we drove to Fox for a look around. Heading back to Franz we took a walk up Sentinel Rock that stands 280 metres high offering a great view of the Franz Josef Glacier and is the best place to view the whole glacier from afar. Before the sky opened up and emptied it's contents on us we headed back to the van and made our way to our camp site for a night curled up in the warm in front of a TV. The next morning we woke early and drove 30 minutes down the road to Fox as we were going on a half day ice hike around and on the Fox Glacier. Well rapped up, we pulled on our hiking boots, put our crampon's in our bag and hopped on the bus to take us there. Getting off at the Fox Glacier Valley we walked up and along the Fox River that is formed from melted ice that flows from the glacier. Walking between the ice carved cliffs offers remarkable views and as you get closer to the glacier the multi dimensional faces and crevices of the glacier are reviled. Putting on our crampons it was time to hit the ice. As our guide cut steps into the ice with his axe we slowly followed up the hand cut staircase eventually leading to the top of the glacier. Leading us on a trail across the top of the glacier we walked through vast doorway like openings in the ice and were rewarded with stunning views up the the entire glacier and the surrounding mountain peaks. After exploring the glacier for close to two hours we made our way back the way we came. We were torn between doing the half day hike and full day hike but after a few hours on the ice our feet were numb and the thought of another few hours on the ice wasn't at the top of our agenda. We loved the hike and it was a great experience but the four hour hike was good enough for us. We had one little treat left in store for that day, as if walking on the glacier wasn't good enough, we wanted to see the whole glacier from the air. Using our refunded cash from Queenstown we booked a scenic flight in a helicopter that would take us up and around the Fox Glacier. We had never been in a helicopter before and we couldn't tell who was more excited as we both giggled like little kids as we jumped into the cockpit. Headsets on and with blades whirling we slowly lifted off and headed towards the mountain range. The grey clouds had rolled in as we waited to board the helicopter and we were unsure of the view we would get but as the helicopter made it's way up the glacier and above the clouds, we were rewarded with amazing blue skies, blazing sun and brilliant white snow capped peaks. We were grinning like Cheshire cats as the pilot flew us around the top of the glacier that was roughly the size of Christchurch. As the nimble chopper flew close to the mountain ridges we could see vast waterfalls that ran down towards the glacier and other people on ice hikes that looked like grains of sand on the massive icy terrain. We were only in the air for 15 minutes but it felt like an hour. What a feast for the eyes. It was single handedly one of the greatest things we have ever experienced in our lives. We were speechless and could not wipe the smiles off our faces for a good few hours. We kept playing it through in our heads for the next few days and every time resulted in us laughing at the thought of how amazing it was. The only thing left to do that evening was to drive 180km north to Greymouth, a lovely little town by the sea and talk about the days activities into the night.

On the 30th September, after a light breakfast we hit the road for a drive to one of the most northern points on the South Island. Taking three and a half hours we arrived at Wharariki and found a charming camp site that was within a sheep farm. Little lambs were bleating and running everywhere and nosey chickens and peacocks walked up to you expecting a feed. We set off for Wharariki Beach via a short walk through a paddock full of spring lambs that would dart off if you got within three metres of them. It was such a crazy transition as one minute you are walking on farm land and then you are climbing sand dunes. No gradual change from earth to sand, just one second you are walking on grass then after two steps you are walking on sand. Only in New Zealand can you expect such a crazy sight. Look left, sand and sea, look right, grass fields and sheep. As you reach the top of of the first sand dune you look down and out onto Wharariki Beach, regarded as one of New Zealand's most beautiful beaches. Perhaps it is the remoteness that makes the beach so special but throw in caves to explore, dunes to climb and impressive rock arches out at sea and you are in for a memorable experience. As we walked along the golden sand with the wind biting at our faces we stopped near a natural rock pool to have a look around. Behind us we heard a splashing noise so climbing up a little way onto the rocks we found four seal pups playing in the water. They noticed we were there straight away and at once they began performing for us by jumping out of the water as they swam. These friendly, curious show off's continued their free show only stopping every now and then to climb up onto the rocks to have a closer look at us. Moving around the rock pool the seal pups followed still putting on their charming wildlife show. One by one they came out of the water and sat on the rocks looking at us. One started coming towards us and got rather close to me before we decided to move away. Well I say move away, we legged it as you never know what they would do being wild animals and all. More than likely it was just coming to take a closer look as they are really curious and super friendly animals but we respected the fact that they were wild animals and kept a safe distance. As mesmerising and cute as they were to watch we eventually dragged ourselves away before the sun started to set and made our way home over the sand dunes and through the fields of lambs that bleated at us as we past.

The past few days had been a roller coaster for the senses and we needed to take it easy for a day or two. So we took a slow drive east and down towards Nelson. Cats and dogs were falling long and hard and the only thing we wanted to do was find a bar and watch England play Scotland in their final group game. We found a camp site and after cooking a long lazy lunch, we pealed ourselves off the sofa and took a taxi into town in our search for the perfect bar. After walking down the main streets Ashleigh pointed out a bar that didn't look too much from the outside but once inside it was exactly what we wanted. TV's and big screens, cheap drinks and free sausages off the BBQ. Watching England play like a bunch of girls was pleasing to everybody else in the bar as we were practically the only English in there. But they ground out the win and we would be facing France in the semi finals, quite promising as we had just watched them getting stuffed from Tonga the game before. Happy to have beat the sweaty socks and enjoying one too many of the cheap drinks we headed homeward bound and crawled into bed as the rain fell hard. The next morning we drove to Founders park as there was a free street art exhibition being shown with works of famous street artist from around the world contributing, including my favourite Banksy. Along our travels I have managed to see works by my art heroes and adding Banksy to my list was a cheeky bonus. Looking like a converted barn, the exhibition inside held on to it's urban roots very well as you walked through the doors to find two cars smashed up and vultures with petrol pumps for heads sitting on top of them. Taking our time we made our way round the exhibits and saving Banksy till last, we slowly meandered out of the gallery feeling very happy with ourselves. Another day of rain was forecast and after our morning of culture we drove south to Hanmer Springs, a quiet town settled in between mountain ranges and caught a few games of rugby at the local pub before bedding down for the night.

We arrived in Christchurch on the 3rd October after a short drive from Hanmer Springs and we were unsure what to expect once we got there. Due to the massive earthquake that had hit and crippled Christchurch in February we had heard so many mixed reports on weather it was open for business, so to say, or not. Our flights were booked to leave Christchurch on the 4th October anyway so one way or another we could not avoid the place. Driving into the outer city limits towards our camp site, the signs of the destructive force of mother nature were clear to see. Cracks in the walls of houses, raised and cracked sections of the roads and walls that had fallen due to the tremors could be seen on practically every street. And these are the areas that haven't been hit badly. We arrived at our camp site and the rain continued to fall hard. We felt like we had been moving around from place to place and doing so many things at 100mph since we had landed in New Zealand. So we thought a night of doing nothing but watching movies was a good way to help us slow down. Our last morning in New Zealand graced us with the grey clouds that had been in the sky for the past few days and the rain fell on and off. We ate our last breakfast in the kitchen and as we stood and packed our thing away, everything shook violently for a couple of seconds. We panicked a little as we realised that we had just witnessed an aftershock. Since the earthquake there has been thousands of aftershocks and now they are just a part of everyday life for the people of Christchurch. It was only small but it was still a bit of a scary experience, even though it was only a few seconds everything shook. Your legs, the cooker, the cupboards, the trees outside, everything. It was a crazy experience to go through and we couldn't imagine what it must have been like for the people who went through the original earthquake. Knowing it had only been a small after shock, we started cleaning and packing up our things in the van as we had to drop Bertha off at the office before heading to the airport. On our way to the office we decided to head in towards the city centre to take a closer look at the damage that had been caused. As you reach the city centre you are met by a wire fence that surrounds the whole city centre. The city centre was the epicentre of the earthquake and boy could you tell. Peering through the wire fence you see buildings that have collapsed like they were made out of paper. Traffic lights flash eerily and coffee cups still sit on the tables that people fled from as the quake hit. We walked past a church that had fell in on itself and as you looked into the city skyline you notice multi-story building that lean on an angle due to walls of the lower floors collapsing. To look at it, you would think that a war had recently ended there and the damage that has been done will take a long time to put right. It saddened us to the core as we saw the destructive power of mother nature and we wish the people of Christchurch a quick and speedy recovery.

So why did we choose to come to New Zealand? Another stamp in the passport? Kill some time on our travels? A new adventure? Well it all started with a guide book that we picked up back in Canberra. The opening paragraph of the guide book goes like this...Put Charles Darwin, Claude Monet and JRR Tolkien in a room with six bottles of vodka and some recreational drugs and, combined, they still couldn't come close to the concept of New Zealand. If nature had a design studio, full of her most surreal and stupendous ideas, on the mantelpiece would be New Zealand or, as the Maori call it 'the Land of the Long White Cloud' and that got us hook, line and sinker. The only word I can use to describe New Zealand, the time we spent here and the memories we are left with is a plain and simple one. The word is beautiful.

Love Peter and Ashleigh x