We gladly left Acapulco and traveled to the surfers' paradise, Puerto Escondido which we found it to be a quiet, sandy stretch of street set across from the impressive Pacific coast.Walking down the strip for the first time, we relaxed to the sound of the waves crashing against the shore. But this was in the evening (when it was relatively cool) and like I said, it was the first time we walked down the strip.

The next day it was hot with precious little breeze and the same small street had a ghostly, off-season feeling and over the three days we were there the charm slowly wore off.It didn't help that we were in a small room without a/c so but we had a plan for improving our moods - surfing.So on the second day, Antony rented a board and I paid for a two hour lesson.He didn't catch a single wave and I had the lesson with the international surfing community's meanest instructor.His primary teaching technique included yelling constant insults and not allowing questions. But despite my fury at paying for a maniac to instruct me, I stood up on almost every wave, having my best surfing day to date.I hope this doesn't mean that I need to be directed by a tyrant to perform well.Regardless, the surfing didn't improve our moods.

To be fair to Puerto, it was actually a nice place and everyone we met was having a fantastic time so this suggested that perhaps the problem was ours. Around this time we were arranging an apartment in NYC, discussing jobs and finances and thoughts of returning to real life started to make us uncomfortable.This wasn't Puerto's fault - just bad timing.Forcing our chins up we planned out the rest of the month and booked to leave the next day.

We climbed into the back of a van for a 6-hour ride to Oaxaca (pronounced Wah-ha-ca) and had no idea that the driver was a formula-one fan.Imagining the van was a Ferrari, he drove over the mountains at an alarming speed and at sharp corners it dawned on him that actually he was driving a crappy white van and slammed on the brakes resulting in the two of us being tossed around our seats like rag dolls.But the ride was worth it.

Crumbling, colorful buildings opening to green courtyards, cobbled streets lead to gilded churches and brass bands and Mariachi groups playing in the Zocalo make Oaxaca an interesting place to wander around.We planned to see some Mayan ruins just outside the city but frankly, we couldn't be bothered.Instead we ate chicken mole in markets, drank beer in cantinas and of course purchased local handicrafts.I went to a wonderful cooking class where we designed the menu, bought ingredients at the market and cooked outside.The menu, you ask?Fried zucchini flowers stuffed with local cheese, quesadillas, black bean soup flavored with avocado leaves, chile rellenos, rose petal ice cream, two salsas, homemade tortillas, guacamole, a rice and cinnamon drink and finished with some very nice Mezcal.

We were able to drag ourselves out of town for one day and traveled into a mountain range called the Sierra Norte (around 3000m above sea level) where we planned a 5-hour hike.At a local village we expected to meet an English speaking guide named Senor Enrique.Instead, we were met by a 14-year old girl named Daniela and her 9-year old sister Joanna, neither of which spoke English.But we trotted off together into the woods to enjoy the cool air and beautiful vistas.At lunchtime, we stopped at a woodland shack and two farmed trout were collected from a paddling pool filled with brown, cloudy water.Surprisingly, it was fresh and tasty and we walked the rest of the way with renewed energy.This was not the case for little Joanna who was so worn out that I thought that Antony would have to carry her the rest of the way!

On the way back to Oaxaca we squeezed into the back of a shared taxi (called a collectivo) with a local women and her 10-year old daughter and were entertained by watching the mother braid her daughter's very long, dark hair and gawk at the men in the front eating mangos smothered in chili sauce.Moments like those you really begin to see how unique Mexico is and feel excited about seeing more.

R & A