So after our Phoenix nights escapade, we headed up towards Abel Tasman, via a lovely little art centre at Mapua Wharf. Whilst we'd been failing to buy Dad some RM Williams boots in the only RM Williams shop in NZ - it was a no, when we picked them up and saw the $450 price tag (would have been useful to know the need for these in Australia, home of Mr RM Williams perhaps... ahem), we got talking to the shop manager who'd recommended a campsite up at Kaiteriteri on the beach, just outside Abel Tasman national park.

So we headed up there and managed to secure what seemed to be the last site on the whole campsite. On the corner, and opposite the kitchen and loos - handy, but 360 degree goldfish bowl sensations - people are terribly nosey on these campsites, and were clearly checking out our budget campervan. Slightly worried it was suffering from a campervan inferiority complex compared to the luxury camper combinations surrounding us - everything AND the kitchen sink, including another full on family fridge wheeled past us. Clearly this wasn't a backpacker place - 1,001 kiwi families on their summer hols and us. excellent. Made the most of the fact it was right opposite the beach and spent a very nice afternoon there while Paul hung loose at the van.

Next day was Kayak day - as Abel Tasman is as much about checking out the park from the water as trekking through it. The double kayak caused some initial teething probs, eventually settled by a massive splashing contest using our paddles. By the time both of us were soaked to the skin, we actually managed to act like grown ups and enjoy the rest of the day, despite my $1 Thai raybans finally giving up the ghost. Had a big lunch on the beach with lots of cake (hurrah) and then a gentle 2 hour stroll through the forest to our pick up point for the water taxi. This was a very bumpy ride back to the centre, thankfully we'd managed to get on first and get a seat under the covers. the taxi was full and there were some very disgruntled germans who got soaked at the back... We met a couple of London girls who we discovered are on a much more serious budget than us - having hired an estate car and sleeping in it all round the south island. Roughing it has just taken it to the next level, with them sneaking into holiday parks for a shower. They'd already been round Russia, Mongolia and China and next stop was Africa, so fair play to them!