Rwanda was different to Uganda in many ways: English was no longer the first foreign language so we had to dust off our rather rusty French; we had to remember to drive on the right instead of the left; and with very few campsites we stayed in some excellent church run hostels instead.

They weren't kidding when Rwanda was named "The land of a thousand hills". Our first few days were spent driving amongst them down the western side of the country. This was some of the most stunning scenery we've experienced on our trip so far.

We got as far as the town of Cyangugu in the south west of the country, which borders the DRC, before turning eastward to make our way to Kigali over the next couple of days. Kigali turned into a 4 day gastronomic extravaganza in celebration of Pam's birthday. We gorged ourselves on 5 star hotel buffet lunches, fabulous local restaurant dinners and even squeezed in a couple of Japanese meals!

From Kigali we continued our journey south into Tanzania and headed to the coastal town of Kigoma on lake Tanganyika. We found an amazing out of town campsite with its own private beach on the crystal clear waters of this stunning lake. Having only planned to stay one night we ended up here for four! We also visited nearby Ujiji which was where Stanley uttered those famous words, "Dr. Livingstone, I presume".

After Kigoma we pushed south to the Zambian border covering over 400 miles of dirt roads, some of which were in horrendous condition. We came across one short section which was total carnage. A bus had dug itself deep into the mud and had been stuck for 2 days. A truck coming the other way was wedged in a 6ft deep pot hole, and the road (if you can call it that) was totally blocked. The stranded motorists had cut a new road through the forest and after some slipping and sliding the Landy made it through!

So now we move on to Zambia and more dirt roads......