An amazing trip north this week along the west coast of Hokkaido to Rishiri Island for 2 nights then back through the middle via Daisetsusan National Park.

Rishiri is a volcanic crater 1700m high- we snorkelled in clear ocean - yes at 46 degrees latitude and freezing! ....cycled 60km around the island on the best cycle tracks we've ever seen - literally bike highways on elevated bridges over deep valleys. Coast dotted with fishing hamlets and a couple of large ports bunkered against storms by the giant concrete sea walls we see everywhere.

Not one European and no English speaking at all.... A little Russian....a truly remarkable experience!