There is something funny about Phu Noi. First, you can not find it on any of the hairy backpackers guides. They just totally bypass the place to hurry on to a full moon party on the island of Koh Phanang. I cannot even find Phu Noi on this blog. Second, none of the lucky ducks expats who live here found this place on a map, they just drove along the coast on their pick up truck and stopped here by pure chance, or came through word of mouth. Third, none of the winter refugees who live here ever plans to leave again. They are from all over Northern Europe, a strangely harmonious mix of young entrepreneurs full of hopes and retirees who left an old life behind them like a chrysalide and took a new flight here, with a beautiful butterfly.

It is not big, or fancy, the beach is not that clean, the jungle not that close. There are no shops here, hardly any WiFi and buses do not drive by...yep, a perfect place to live hidden, safe, happy and peacefully in a luxuriant garden by a pool, in the shade of a big house... We got the amazing privilege to share that suspended reality for two weeks, again thanks to our local guardian angel, James (I swear, I am starting to see wings on his back). He took us down here and left us with his van, in a coconut grove, by a pool, in the shade of a big house, our home for 15 days of bliss.

Okay, let us be real, out of the two weeks, one week was spend being sick as dogs for Maxim and myself (after a dodgy meal in a beach side restaurant called Very Good), but besides and despite that, it was bliss. Before going back to Bangkok, James introduced us to a another local guardian angel Colm, who tucked us firmly under his wings and took us around in our handy van to explore the area. Without him, our time here would have been great, with him, it became extraordinary. Colm made us discover local places we would have otherwise missed out on, and took us for beautiful meals in places overlooking luxurious resorts and pools, sandy beaches and markets and at his place where his wife Suey kindly cooked an amazing Thai meal for us. Pilling up in the back of his ute and driving back through coconuts groves under the stars in the balmy night after a meal among irish expats...Yep another one for the memory box...

One day he took us to see the giant statue of a sitting black buddha and gave us an insight into this region peaceful religion. There are three main stages to be in for statues in the buddhist word. Lying down means that the state of Nirvana (total serene peace) has been reached, standing up means a warrior protection against ennemies. Sitting down is the position of teaching, the generous passing on of knowledge. When a beloved monk passes away, one way to honour him is to build a huge statue corresponding to his role in the community. Once the statue is built, it becomes a place of pelerinage. A brisk trade of miniature statues and good luck charms insures steady revenues for the remaining monks in the area. Religion here is everywhere and at every level. Thai men are all expected to be a monk at least for three months in their life. During that time, they shave their head, wear a bright orange robe, sleep on a floor in a temple and go out every morning to collect donations of food in the nearby village. A nice way to discover humility and inner peace for a young adult. Thais often wear a slim cord blessed by a monk on their wrist. In their garden, there will be a tiny wooden temple to house the local spirits in comfort. Trees deemed to be the special abode of woman spirits are adorned with precious cloths. Not a day goes by without a special prayer. Necks and cars are protected by good luck charms...there is nothing aggressive or arrogant about this religion, it happens in an organic way, as part of a daily ritual. Our spiritual life in the Western world seems very flat in comparaison...

Of course, Colm took us to markets too, everywhere we went on this trip, there has been markets. One was colourfull and organised along the water, the floating market of Huan Hin, the second one much more mysterious offering orchids and carved wooden furnitures on the border with Burma. There were beaches too. We spent an idyllic afternoon on Ah Manao beach, reached by crossing an army landing strip (look right, look left, look up, quick go for it). There is something blissful about reclining in a lounge chair on a golden beach and having a steaming meal brought to you as you chill out in the shade with an ice cold beer...When Callum rushed out of the water with red burning jellyfish stings all over his legs, I just happen to have the right cream in my handbag. Eight months on the road with kids can do that to you...

On Tuesday, we spent a whole day going in and out off long wooden boats. First we went sailing on a river in Sam Roi Yot (300 mountains) national park and saw water snakes and toy like monkeys balancing on trees over our boat. Then after a meal in a colourful hut on a white and turquoise beach, we waded in warm sea water and climbed on another long boat to visit a spectacular open air cave, a 450 meter climb above the water. As we sat on the boat, zooming among cliffs, sea breeze in our hair, white sand on our toes, wet shorts on our legs, I breathed in that moment to store in the memory box...Another perfect day in Thailand. Colm, when you read this, Thank you so very much, you have looked after us as if we were family. I hope to return the favour to you one day in Australia.

Our two weeks just flew by and today we drove back to Bangkok, armed with maps and a naive confidence that we could find our way back all by ourselves. It took us three hours from Phu Noi to Bangkok, then another three hours to get to our hotel. After an hour of becoming more and more lost and entangled in a traffic from hell, I jumped in a taxi and gave him the address written down in Thai...And even the taxi got lost and entangled in the evening traffic. Paul valiantly drove the van from noon till seven among mad trucks and scotters with a death wish, the last van ride of our trip. One day, I will tell you about the hilarious incident at the petrol station, I promised someone not to put it on the blog...

We are not ready to come back to reality yet, there is one more adventure waiting for us in Laos.

To be followed...