Blog 6

'Quiet riot'

As we arrived at the hostel in phnom Penh the owner explained that there might be some noise in the morning as we were situated across from freedom square and the Cam people were staging a peaceful protest against government vote rigging, a government which has been in power for 20 years, stolen land from the people of an already war torn country, and raised taxes to an impossible level.

We were woken at 6am by commotion coming from the street and what sounded like extremist shouting coming via a megaphone. I went to the balcony to see over 2000 people cheering this megaphoned man. He was saying all the right things. As it was a friendly protest I dressed and headed for the street to get a feel for the atmosphere of the people. Excitement buzzed through the air. The Cams were clearly excited and relieved to be taking action against the dire situation their government is leaving them in.

Five minutes later people started looking to the skies, pointing and shouting in khmer (Cambodian language) something to the effect of 'this is a good sign, this is for us!'. I looked up to see the sun encircled by a rainbow, and back down to see the faces of the people illuminated with smiles from ear to ear. Even the witnessing of a 'miracle' didn't stop the tuktuk drivers...'tuktuk sir???'.

Pictures taken, we went about our day which consisted of national museum, royal palace and the first bread I've eaten in two weeks. As we left the palace, me chasing a hundred pigeons into flight, Jo shouts 'Bryn look!'. What she was looking at was over a thousand armed officers marching past the palace and onto ............ In the excitement we followed a while to see what was happening. Within seconds the army of police assembled guerilla style into a protective square, shields raised, and began pounding these with batons, which brought about the same effect of the All Black's haka. 50mtrs down the road the now bloated crowd of quiet rioters were pulling and smashing at barb wire barricades. That was enough for us, we wanted safety.

Two minutes later we took seats on the balcony of a sky bar over the street and watched. We witnessed the people being continuously hosed back by fire engines and then a lull, a quiet before the storm. A round of gunshots were fired, and all this amid the haka going off continuously right below us. Next smoke bombs were fired into the crowds. The people dispersed. The police had a toilet break in the Mekong, but remained in the streets into the night. Two more days of planned protests to go. So much for peaceful.

Today I learnt that one man lost his life from a bullet ricochet, four were injured, and all this would only antagonise and add fuel to the already raging fire. On the bus out of Phnom Penh we saw army trucks along the roads and it was explained to us that they were stopping people from the jungle. The sad fact is that these people now have nothing to live for: no land, job or hope, and have made it their aim to come and die in protest against a corrupt leadership.

I've got no doubt that there'll be fireworks in Phnom Penh tonight, and I'm thankful to be out of there.

Bryn x