Phuket & Koh Phi Phi & Koh Lanta
After our nice, straightforward flight from Penang, (including an annoying stop in KL) we reach Phuket without a hitch. We are glad to be collected from the airport (Pineapple Guesthouse where we are staying, have arranged a taxi for us!)
It is a good 45 minute drive to resort area of Kata where we are staying, but it’s a nice relaxing journey, especially knowing we have a fair bit of ‘chill out’ time coming up. We are amazed to see a Tesco ‘Lotus’ store en route!

The guesthouse turns out to be a lovely, welcoming place, in a great location. The road down to the beach is just around the corner and from there it is just a 5 minute walk to the beach. Perfect!

We don’t do a great deal during our time in Phuket, I’d go as far as to say...we’re pretty lazy. But considering the past 3 and a half weeks have been spent travelling through Vietnam, Cambodia then across to KL and Penang, we are glad to have some “down time”. After our few days spent reading on the beach (and almost melting we’re sure) and having some lovely meals in the nearby restaurants, we are ready to move onto our first island – Koh Phi Phi! We book our boat tickets at a nearby tour office – we will be collected the following day to be taken to the ferry terminal!

Not the most comfortable journey, we are crammed into tiny mini bus, wherein air con is non-existent and the driver gets rather irate when anyone attempts to open a window in this hot box vehicle. The transfer took longer than expected and by the time we reach the pier, it just seems to be in a state of organised chaos. Not really sure where to go/what to do...our busload of people stick together...herded along to the boat. Resisting any of the touts ploys to book our accommodation in Phi Phi (we are relieved we booked ahead!) we are eventually boarding the boat!

Well, what can we say. That the boat is overloaded? A certainty. That it is worryingly full of flies? Definitely. That we may well get sea sick? Possibly!

After remaining stationary for what seemed like an eternity – as more and more people were squeezed on board, we eventually set off.

Andy and I used all our energy to concentrate on trying to ignore the stifling heat, lack of ventilation and flies that kept landing on us. The only seats we could find to sit on were on the lower level. The lack of vision out of any window is a little unnerving, so we turn on the ipods, shut our eyes and will the time to pass!

It really is lucky that we have our accommodation arranged at Phi Phi, the island seems to be heaving! After a few helpful directions along the way we finally reach our guesthouse in the centre of Phi Phi. It is such a relief to dump our bags down after what has seemed like the longest journey!

We then retreat to a nearby restaurant for some much needed food! Whilst tucking in, two young guys, who had sat across from us on the boat traipse into the restaurant, looking rather dejected...still carrying all their backpacks. This reaffirms our satisfaction at having booked ahead!

We spend the rest of the afternoon trying to get our bearings. The layout of the island seems particularly bizarre! There are no cars, but many men armed with giant...trolleys. Yes, trolleys would be the best description, primarily used to carry peoples’ luggage from the pier to the guesthouses. Clearly these people aren’t REAL backpackers....backpacks are for wearing not wheeling around! The “roads” are narrow dusty paths, with shops lining both sides, and the ringing of bicycle bells is frequent, as locals whizz past on them. Every possible item is available to buy – ranging from lovely clothing in little boutiques, books, to specialist diving gear! Oh and there are many bars! It is hard to imagine what the island would have looked like following the tsunami that struck, but clear to see, given the terrain how it could cause so much devastation.

After venturing out for a meal in the evening, we go in search of somewhere to settle and have a drink. It is at this point we notice 2 familiar faces....Sally and Martin!! The lovely parents of our friend Jo, who lives in Cyprus. Having met (and stayed with) Sally and Martin on previous trips to Cyprus, we were aware they would be in this part of the world, and I had learnt a few days earlier from Jo that they were in fact in Phi Phi! What a wonderful surprise! They immediately invited us to join them and their 2 friends for drinks and a catch up. It is so great to see familiar faces. We make plans to meet the next evening for dinner, at a lovely secluded beach they have discovered across the island!

The next day we exert ourselves as far as...going to the beach and lying down. We have a break for food and a wander around some of the lovely shops....but then there is more lying down. It is around about now, I start to feel a little groggy...almost as if I have a....cold??! But surely not, we are in 30+C, that would be ridiculous.

Ridiculous it is indeed. I steadily feel worse and worse as the day continues, until eventually my head feels like it may possibly explode. Consequently we have to pull out of our dinner plans with Sally and Martin, the consolation being that we had at least managed to have drinks with them last night. I was determined to feel well enough to go on the boat trip we’d booked to travel round the islands the following day.

After knocking back some decongestant tablets and arming myself with LOTS of tissues, we set off to begin our boat trip at lunchtime. After collecting our flippers (which I’m really not sure if I will manage to use) and hopping aboard our long tail boat, we soon set off! The scenery is beautiful, sparkling turquoise waters, high-rise mountains shooting straight up out of the water –stunning! We soon reach our first snorkelling spot, and after watching everyone don their gear...I decide it might do me some good and help to clear my head. As soon as I am in, I realise I have nowhere near enough energy to swim against the rather large waves, never mind use my snorkel and look under water. Andy helps me get back to the boat and haul myself out. It is at this moment that another swimmer shouts to Andy and I: “Hey there is a load of reef shark over there”. Now I know reef shark aren’t dangerous, but I really didn’t need to hear that! Andy manages to make it over to them to get a good look, I’m happy to hear his account of them!

Soon enough everyone is on board again, and we jet off to our next stop – Monkey Beach. We are a little disappointed to not spot any monkeys. ..it is quite a pretty beach nonetheless, but a little tainted by the numerous bits of rubbish being washed up on the shoreline. A sad effect of tourism.

We then move to another cove area for snorkelling attempt no.2 – much more successful this time! I even manage to don all the snorkelling gear with Andy’s help and get a good look around the water. The water is lovely and clear and we manage to spot quite a few dazzling fish! On moving away from this area we pass by the Viking caves,

Finally we reach Maya Bay – aka “The Beach”. It is allot wider than we had expected , and brings back memories of being in NZ, in the bay of Islands watching The Beach with Barney and Mark, which seems like a lifetime ago! Jumping out onto the shore, we are told we have over an hour to just chill out – lovely. It is clear to see the area is now overrun by tourism, at various points during our stay, the shore line is coca-block with long tail and tour boats dropping off hordes of people. The water has definitely taken a hit with the huge rise in visitors and unfortunately, in parts, has a somewhat oil-slick gleam on the surface. Unsurprising given all the petrol powered boats visiting! Nevertheless it is still a paradise-like sight to behold! As the sun starts to shift lower in the sky, our movie-star moment is over and its time to head back to the mainland. On the way back, our boat stops for 20 mins, letting us watch the sun drop down into the Indian Ocean..beautiful!
After dinner that evening, we head to watch some Muay Thai Boxing at Reggae Bar, as recommended by Jen and Chris, our honeymoon pals in Oz. Anyone in the audience can volunteer to partake in some fighting action, and it is pretty entertaining to watch these amateurs, who think they are tough (mainly due to being intoxicated), attempt to look like pros – and fail miserably! Its all about money making here, as we see numerous people kicked out of the bar, as they 1) do not have a drink in their hand and 2) decline the offer of a drink order to the waitresses. After watching a few matches, we decide to retire – the days’ activities have taken their toll and I really don’t feel too great!

The night that follows is definitely up there with my worst experiences of travelling. In hindsight I had the beginnings of a really bad head cold/blocked sinuses...but at the time, I thought perhaps my brain was attempting to escape my skull, or something equally painful. Andy resorted to wandering around Phi Phi at some crazy time in the morning, in search of a medical centre or hospital. (In case the brain did indeed escape, and needed putting back in) He was not particularly impressed by what he found, rather he was quite distressed on meeting a young guy from London, in excruciating pain with ear ache, being sent away and directed to return at 8am. This guy needs treatment!

Andy enquires with our guesthouse about the possibility of staying for an additional night, however he is informed that they are fully booked. Also, we already have our tickets to travel onwards to Koh Lanta...

So, in the morning, Andy cracks on with packing our belongings, which allows me to try and sleep some more! He does a sterling job of cramming everything back into our backpacks, so all I need to do is get myself down to the pier for our trip.

I am relieved to say the boat trip to Koh Lanta is a MUCH better experience than the previous. This time our seats are up top, with windows and a fan blowing on us. This is how it SHOULD be!

In Koh Lanta we are staying at the Papillon Bungalows, a recommendation from Steve, who owned Pineapple Guesthouse. They have sent a tuk tuk to pick us up....plus another couple. It is extremely entertaining to watch the tuk tuk driver try to fit in ALL our luggage...AND the 4 of us. Clearly this isn’t going to work! So much so, that another tuk tuk driver takes pity and intervenes; offering to take the other 2 guests.

These beautiful bungalows are owned by a lovely Belgian Lady! The perfect combination of rural, but modern creature comforts. The best is yet to come...when we wander down the dirt path track, between bungalows 6 and 7...we end up on a beautiful beach and it’s practically empty. Bliss. The water is crystal clear...and calm. Just what we need, some peace and quiet – a place to recouperate! Our bungalow is really spacious, containing nothing more than the bare essentials and the bathroom is huge! One giant wet room. The hammock and swing on the front porch are a lovely addition. Easily slipping into a routine of..breakfast, beach, lunch, beach, dinner and drinks...we soon feel super relaxed, and my horrendous cold begins to subside. (I now have a whole box of tissues permanently attached to me – just call me Mrs. Snotty).

On our last evening we discover a brilliant beach bar next door, complete with a couple of guys (or rather 1 guy, and a very young boy) entertaining everyone with their flaming stick twirling, literally. (a true art form here in Thailand, people lighting either end of these long sticks, or “poi” – like 2 balls attached to 2 pieces of string, and swinging/twirling/flinging them around. Very impressive!) Brilliant cocktails, yummy pizzas and fantastic entertainment! Koh Lanta has been a really lovely surprise, although it is sad to see, when wandering out beyond the grounds of the bungalows, the amount of rubbish and pollution that is strewn along the roads. You guessed it – that plastic bag effect has struck again. It would seem there isn’t a garbage collection/disposal system in place, therefore in that respect, it has a fair way to come in terms of development. It is a cross between a once-busy resort area that has been abandoned and a resort area that is only half finished. With some tweeks here and there, this would really be the perfect place!

Our next journey is to be a fairly long one, involving a bus and boat trip combined...It’s time to head back to the mainland....next stop Krabi.