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25,000 Miles Of American Beauty
From the coastline of northwestern Washington to the temperate rain forest, west of Seattle, you will find Olympic National Park. The park includes three diverse areas - the coastal region, the forests and the mountain region but also includes over over 600 islands in national wildlife refuges and five areas in the Olympic National Forest. There are nearly 75 miles of coastline designated as coastal wilderness - making it one of the longest wilderness coast in the lower 48 states. The forest has two distinct environments - a temperate forest in the western valleys and what they call the "Old Growth" forest in the northern area of the park. There is nearly one million acres of raw beauty within the Olympic National Park and I use "raw" because 95% of the park is pure wilderness. The Olympic Mountains make up most of the park's interior with Mount Olympus and it's 8 glaciers being the highest peak in the park. In the temperate forest, the canopy is so thick they say the snow never touches the ground. There is easy access to most of the beaches but you must remain aware of the tide tables and never turn your back on the ocean because of "sneaker waves". Some areas of the coastal park are separated by tribal lands and crossing them is not permitted. There are no through roads within the interior of the park; however, hiking trails can be reached by using one of the many spurs stemming from Highway 101, a 367-mile scenic drive which encircles the interior park and runs along the beaches. Most trails are easy to moderate hikes with exception of the mountain region but if time is a factor, the most recommended trail would be to the Hoh Rain Forest Trail. In each direction and within several miles, Olympic National Park is like a palette full of colors...the snow-topped mountains glisten above the lush, forest regions; the blue ocean waters skirt along the tan, wind-flattened beaches and the cliff-sides strut their brown, gray and red jagged rocks as they jut from the ocean floor as if they were a fortress between the land and the sea. I caught a rare sight of a snow owl on one of our late drives back to camp; there were lots of deer and elk alongside the roads and in fields; and, on the trails, there were many different types of animal and bird prints. Stops at nearly every (accessible) beach offered beautiful seascapes and a chance to search for treasures from seashells, rocks, driftwood and semi-precious stones. Within the parks' boundary, you are not allowed to remove any driftwood, shells, fossils or bones and you can only take two handfuls of small stones. On one of the southern beaches, a whale had washed ashore about a week before - they leave them where they are because it is the wilderness and that is a part of what happens in the wild. There was also a very large skeletal frame (completely intact) on one of the central beaches, which was probably that of a sea lion...all eerie to walk up on but still cool to see. Outside of the northend of the park is a great beach (Clallam Bay) where agates of all shapes, colors and sizes can be found. This is a public beach so there were no restrictions on what could be removed but I'm sure if you had an excessive amount of stuff, it may draw the attention of an officer. After hitting the beaches and filling my bag -oops, I mean getting my two handfuls, it was time to make our way to the most northwestern point in the lower 48, Cape Flattery, WA. Cape Flattery is on the Makah Indian Reservation and a permit must be obtained before entering - the cost is only $10 but it is valid for one year. This is one of the most scenic and serene areas visited while traveling on the coastal area of Washington. It takes about 30 minutes to hike down a cascading path with artfully lined slabs of tree-trunks for steps and a raised boardwalk that adds to the natural appeal of the trail. Along the trail there are a few narly areas where roots intertwine above ground giving an abstract sculpture to the earth below; I consider the hike to be easy. Once at the point, you can see the ocean pound the cliffs below and the waves try to hide within the sea caves; there is no way a picture could capture the true beauty of raging waters below. While being entertained by the crashing waves, a starfish was cast against a cliff; it hung there as if waiting to catch the next big wave back out to sea. About a half mile off shore is Tatoosh Island; it is home of a lighthouse that stands guard over the sacred point and overlooks the entrance to the Strait of Juan de Fuca. Tatoosh Island is a natural habitat for a diverse community of seabirds, marine plants and animals; it is now one of the most studied sites in the world. The sun began to set; the water lightly glistened; twilight was just upon us. The drive back to camp was peaceful and sedate; we had had another wonderful day making new and precious memories. The Dunes Resort and RV Campground provided a clean campsite with full amenities; it is located just south of Copalis Beach and only a short distance to the Pacific Ocean, with miles of interesting beaches to walk. There is also a nearby channel that empties into the ocean - just perfect for kayaking. During our stay in the area, the winds were renlentless and early mornings called for the warmth of the fireplace. They say the mountian ranges and the Pacific Ocean create a "gentle climate" for the Washington coastal area. I found their definition of "Gentle" to mean, bring a parka unless you're an Eskimo or popcicle. It was time to trade the unseasonably cool climate of the coastal region for a warmer area - Elma, WA.
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