Flying with LADE (a local airline managed by the air force!) from Bariloche to El Calafate ended up being a good choice. Sure it was 45 minutes late but I was expecting worse. I was waiting for a propeller plane to land on the tarmac to pick us up but what arrived seemed like a large private jet. It wasn't of course but it was a Fokker-28 (yes that's right!),a relatively old Dutch made aircraft. Although the ride was a little bumpy, it was all good and they even served palatable food instead of sweets and snacks like most commercial airlines do here.

El Calafate seems like an outpost town in the middle of a harsh, bleak but still picturesque landscape, that has been slapped together quickly to cater for the influx of tourists who use it as a base to explore the nearby glaciers and national parks. It even had a Nordic feel to it in parts, as some of the houses had the pointed roofs that almost went right down the side of the house but then in the middle of the main street, was a massive concrete eyesore of a casino. Very random.

Going this far south was not in the original plan as I thought I had missed the season and things would be getting too cold but boy am I glad I did get down there. Everything was still open, the weather was perfect and I could get to experience something special. Opting for the full tour of Perito Moreno Glacier was worth every penny. The tour started with some pics from afar as you get the first glimpse of the glacier coming round the bend in the road on the bus. Even at this distance it was awe inspiring but the real moment came when we got to the park and walked down to the viewing platforms. I have seen some spectacular sights on this trip but my first reaction was this was the best yet. It was spectacular and nothing like I had ever seen. The shape of it, the size of it, even the sound of it leaves you in astonishment. The whole thing is around 300 square km dwarfing the size of Buenos Aires. Many people waited with cameras ready to try and video some huge chunks of ice being carved off but alas this wasn't to be. We did however see a few minor 'crashes' and with the time delay and echo, the sound of what was crashing into the river made the chunks seem larger than what they actually were. I had a huge grin on my face the whole time though and couldn't help but think how jealous my sister would be right now..sorry Tammy!

After a quick boat trip across the bay to get a closer look, the group donned the crampons to begin the mini-trek all over the glacier...well as long as you followed the guide's tracks as if you didn't, you may be in trouble. Walking on it was a lot of fun but the landscape made it seem like you were on another planet, especially the different colours the ice formed depending on varying levels of pressure. At the end of it all we came to a clearing where the guides were pouring whiskey for everyone chilled with freshly carved ice from the glacier. What a way to end the trek!

I sometimes have moments of indifference about the length of time I intend to travel (although compared to most people I meet I'm not going for very long) but its moments like today that make me feel better about keeping going.

Thanks for all the messages people, keep 'em coming!