Back on the road we arrive in the border town Sesheke where we quickly cross over into Namibia without any issues. The Namibian border town main drag is a welcome site with 2 large supermarkets, pharmacy, clothing shops etc. We stock up on snacks for the Skelton Coast trip, fresh bread and ice pops to go in the Hilux camper freezer knowing they will be a welcome treat in a week or so. We have a long 5 hour drive ahead on fantastic tarmac roads down the Caprivi strip region here you see giraffe & elephant crossing the road every so often.

Signs for our campsite appear and we head down 4km sand tracks, we love the humour on the route selection '2x4 - Land Rover' one way and '4x4 - Landcruiser' the other, further on we see a sign reading "Notice 4x4 drivers - engage 4WD - Select low range - Lock hubs and diff and Cross your fingers. Everyone else just drive normally (don't worry 4WD is not needed but it helps justify the cost of buying or hiring one)".

Parked up it feels great to be stopping and not setting up the camper for camping, instead Maz has arranged our 3 night stay on the river's edge in a treehouse, eager to see we get the instructions from reception where Maz asks where the key is, the reply is under the mat. We head down the track to find Treehouse 16 - there is no mat, in fact there are not walls it's just a bed with a roof with slatted sides you can put down if you want privacy. What a stunning setting, 2 open air rooms, decking, outdoor shower with hidden away toilet. I think Arabella is a little shell shocked with the open air shower and lack of private space that she so dearly craves, Maddalena and Luca seem fine with all and even want to sleep with the side of the rooms rolled up to take in the morning sunrise, but we have to work out a compromise to appease Arabella desperately needing a sleep in and darkness.

I'm off duty cooking evening meals Maz has booked breakfast and dinners, so we head to the bar with head torches packed for our return later. Ngepi campsite is a real travellers hub and well known on the overland route situated in the unspoiled upper reaches of the Okavango delta, the camp is set on an island under amazing trees with permanent river frontage and surrounded by seasonally flooded swamps. There is a floating swimming pool in the river caged to protect you from crocodiles - lets see if any of the kids feel tempted for a swim. There are loads of families here and it feels like a destination many local Namibians would come along with international guests too.

A gorgeous sunrise along with birds chirping and hippos grunting wakes us from a rather broken night's sleep where there was a constant stream of animals noises, hippos on one side of the river and lions roaring on the other, the river flowing underneath us didn't help as it was making me want to get up for a pee too many times. Maz went early for breakfast with Luca and Maddalena whilst I potted around handwashing laundry and tiptoeing around trying not to disturb Arabella's sleep in.

The remainder of the day consisted of relaxing, hanging out at the tree house in the hammock, kids going off to the bar to try an access the slow Wifi and playing Azul.

Happy Birthday - 5th August what a way to start my 50th waking up outside under a mosquito net to the most beautiful sunrise glistening on the river with hippos bellowing along with morning cuddles with the love of my life taking it all in. The day is mine to do as I please which to be honest isn't a lot, just being one with family is enough. We spend the day playing board games, chatting, Luca going in the floating pool - but not hanging out in it for too long as you just don't know what is lurking nearby, me drinking a few beers and a late afternoon game drive with a stop to have nibbles and drinks, all very nice and chilled, then back in time for dinner. They make me sit at the head of the table as its my birthday, so I am looking out over the river with my back to the restaurant. After the main I notice Maz and Maddalena laughing, following my 'Oh my god' coming from Arabella as if something bad is about to happen, I look at Maz, shake my head and tell him I was going to kill him, I am too scared to turn around, I am imagining a tribe getting ready to dance and sing, like what we saw welcoming the guests at the Livingstone hotel. I am still embarrassed as 2 waitresses come over through a packed restaurant singing happy birthday, but part of me is relived it wasn't anything more. Once I had got over the humiliation, we tucked into the most delicious chocolate orange cake, wrapped up the remainder in tin foil to save for another day.

On the road and really keen to get to next destination for the night, the long 7hr drive is pretty uneventful. Arriving at the accommodation we are like a fish out of water it's a proper nice lodge with swimming pool and private deer park, Luca was happy about the swimming pool and whilst the girls were so enthusiastic about the amazing shower and high WiFi speed so make the most of both - oh how everyday showers and WiFi are taken for granted back home!

Dinner feels super posh with other quests all dressed for a formal dinner and us in our not so tidy attire, but I guess this place caters more for tourists flying in and going on group safaris not independent travellers like us.

We try to blend in as best we can. Our meal gets delivered to the table with the plates covered by silver domes and carefully placed in front of us, we are all waiting with bated breath to see what is underneath. Maz quotes "chilled Monkey brains" from Indiana Jones I tell him off, as the kids are trying not to snigger, me shooshing them in embarrassment - then the waitresses go "3, 2, 1 surprise" and lift the silver domes. WOW we enjoy the best meal we have had to date on our travels, it was fantastic to have the traditional cuisines combined with the colonial foods. Content the kids dive off in different directions to make the most of the last of the best Wifi we have had since the start of our trip knowing full well that it's all downhill from here on many levels.