Leaving our overland group was hard for both Ian and I because we had become such good friends with many of them. However, we had to move on to our next adventure, climbing Mount Kilimanjaro. This mountain stands at 19,340 feet and is the tallest mountain in Africa and the tallest free-standing mountain in the world.

There are several routes by which we could have ascended to the summit, but four of our Australian friends that we had met on the overland truck convinced us that there was no better way to do Kilimanjaro than by the hardest route, the Umbwe. Not only did they want us to climb this route, which ascends to the summit in four days, but they also challenged us to climb to the summit, sleep in the crater at the top, summit again the following morning, and then descend to the bottom all in one day. Most people that we talked to thought that we were insane because the guides have enough trouble just getting people to the summit once this time of year because of the deep snow, but we were determined to face the challenge and see it through. Once settled, we booked the trip through a company called Team Kilimanjaro (www.teamkilimanjaro.com), and they along with our guides James (Kabanze) and Nico (Bosso) and porters were absolutely outstanding.

The first day James and Nics drove us to the Umbwe Gate at the foot of the mountain, and we unloaded the gear and began to climb up through the dense jungle with palm trees, enormous banyan-like trees, and an intense heat and humidity. However, the climate changed both quickly and drastically as we continued to climb on the second day to Barranco camp at 13,000 feet. The trees in this area became markedly smaller, and there was much less vegetation. The air also became thinner making it slightly more difficult to breath, but we were energized by our first sight of the summit towering above our heads as we nearly reached the half-way mark for the climb of the second day.

The Barranco camp was very cold, and we spent most of our time there staying in our tents attempting to acclimatize as well as stay out of the strong wind and cold. The next day we climbed to the Barafu camp at 15,800 feet, and at this point there were no trees or vegetation, just a few ravens, a buzzard, and a couple mice. This night was extremely cold, and Ian began to feel the effects of the altitude in the form of a slight headache and a bit of nausea. James questioned us whether we still wanted to summit, sleep in the crater, and summit again because the altitude sickness only gets worse as you keep ascending, but Ian said that he was capable and we prepared for the summit attempt the next day.

When we arose the next day, everything was frozen. The ground was white with fresh snow, and there was a brisk breeze, but the summit was clear. So, we packed up our gear and headed up the steepest part of the trail over snow and ice to Stella Point, which is 18,995 feet. The view from the point was breath-taking because I could look back over the African plains, and it was also my first glimpse into the enormous snow-covered crater (extinct volcano) with its towering glaciers and steep walls. Here they gave us a Red Bull and some Pringles, and then we powered on to Uhuru Peak (the summit) at 19,340 feet. The conditions were perfect with it being sunny and clear, and Ian and I enjoyed striking various poses with the sign and then cracking open a Kilimanjaro Lager to celebrate our first accomplishment on this climb.

After spending some time at the top, we climbed down to the crater floor through knee deep snow, but as soon as we got past the large boulders we were able to sit and slide down the steep cliff to the crater floor. We spent most of the rest of the day in the crater checking out the glaciers and playing with enormous ice sickles, but the air began to chill as the night came on and we were forced to retreat to the tents.

The night we spent in the crater was without a doubt the coldest that I have ever been. It was a bone-chilling -25 degrees Fahrenheit, and everything froze from the zippers to open the tent, to my shoes becoming rock solid, to the ice that formed on the top of my fleece beanie during the night. Ian also began to feel worse from the altitude, but he was determined to finish the challenge. So, once again, we moved on. However, the snow was too deep to proceed back to the summit the normal route, so we had to hike through the crater then back up to Stella Point and reach the summit from there. It was about three times the distance, and it took its toll on Ian who was feeling really weak from not being able to eat in the altitude. Once we made it to the top the second time, we were both ready to descend to the bottom not as part of the challenge but just to get off the mountain.

After several hours of pounding on our ankles and knees, we finally made it to the Mweka gate and the end of our Kilimanjaro journey. It was a tough experience, but I feel that the way we climbed the mountain made it the most satisfying physical accomplishment of my life. I really cannot say enough about the experience and the value of having a good company with good guides that will encourage you to keep going and make it to the top. Now, we are headed back South to Dar es Salaam to work out getting visas for India and then back to Zanzibar, the island paradise. "Hakuna Matata" (No worries). Till next time, Cheers.