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Let's just say... be on time if you are taking a train in China! It was definitely my fault for playing around on the internet a little too long, but we missed our 48 hour train to Tibet by 30 seconds! Luckily, they were exceptionally nice and booked us on the train for the next day with no extra charge and actually gave us money back since they had to change where our bunks were located. With that settled, we made it for the second train the next day and embarked on the most beautiful train journey into one of the most interesting cultures and places that we have been to.
The first day was the typical train experience traveling by rail through China of passing dozens of power plants or manufacturing plants. It seemed as though every time I looked out the window there was some sort of plant. However, as we started ascending over the mountains to the Tibetan Plateau, the scenery changed dramatically. The mountains were covered in snow, and there was hardly any foliage across the vast plains in the valleys. It looked like a desolate snow desert, but to our surprise we saw many herds of antelope running across the distance as well as herds of woolly Yaks (similar to a cattle but larger and covered with thick, long hair); we also saw several artic foxes chasing mice over the plains. The most surprising thing that we saw though was the nomads. Either individuals or small groups of people would seem to be wandering in the middle of nowhere with the nearest town being hours away by train, and it was below freezing outside! I am not sure how or if they survived, but I was dumbfounded by the sight.
Once we arrived in Lhasa (the capital), we met our guide, Nima, who took us to our hotel. To travel to Tibet we actually had to apply to the Chinese government for special permits, and then while there we had to have a guide as well as stay in star rated hotels (neither of which we have done for the year and were not complaining too much about), and it ended up being a great experience. The first day we decided to set out from Lhasa and visit some of the smaller villages that have not been touched as much by the Chinese influence as well as see the landscape, and then work our way back to Lhasa.
The sights to see all over Tibet are all the monasteries, which seem to be all about the same but some vary in size and in religious importance to the Tibetans. However, what I feel is special about Tibet is the people. The people here do things much the same way they would have done them four hundred years ago. They still use the yaks to plow the fields, have horse driven carts, and build their houses out of logs and mud. They also still keep up their religion with a great fervor even after the Cultural Revolution, which destroyed many of the monasteries and made the practice of religion illegal for nearly 30 years. It's amazing to watch their devotion as they prostrate themselves all around the monasteries and the Potala Palace. I cannot imagine too many westerners wanting to get on their knees, stretch out and kiss the ground around the entire Vatican, but it is very much a part of their culture to do those things there, and it is wonderful to see.
The old home of the Dalai Lama, the Potala Palace, is, in fact, my favorite structure that I have seen on this trip. I like it better than Machu Picchu, the Taj Mahal, or even Angkor Wat! I believe that I like it not only because it is enormous, but the Tibetan Buddhist religion and culture pervades throughout it both inside and out. It was built several hundred years ago, and the inside really made me feel like I was venturing into a far away spiritual place because the yak butter candles burning and incense create a musty, smoky atmosphere that is only enhanced by the lack of light and enormous tapestries and paintings of Tibetan gods and evil spirits. There are even monks here that sit and chant Tibetan teachings all day. The monasteries are much the same, but the grandeur of the Potala Palace and knowing that it was not destroyed during the Cultural Revolution makes it a very special place.
In quick reference to the Dalai Lama (the former political and spiritual leader of Tibet), he has not been able to return to Tibet or the Potala Palace since the 1950's when he escaped in exile to India. It is actually illegal to speak of him in Tibet, and there is obviously still a lot of national pride and hopes that one day Tibet will become its own country again allowing the Dalai Lama to return. However, most people believe it will never happen, but they still pay homage to the Dalai Lama quietly every Wednesday by burning large amounts of incense because the current Dalai Lama was born on a Wednesday. It looks as though there are small brush fires scattered all throughout the city, and while they may never have the Dalai Lama again, at least they are able to practice their religion fairly freely now.
After leaving Tibet, we spent a few more days in Beijing to buy some Christmas gifts and enjoy our last little time in Asia, but we are now getting ready to set off to our last country on the one year world tour, Australia. So, we are looking forward to summer again since it is in the Southern Hemisphere and will hopefully play with some kangaroos and koalas as well as dive the Great Barrier Reef. Till next time, Cheers.
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