The road from Rurre to La Paz was interesting, and partly scary. We passed through jungle terrain reminiscent of Asia, with thatched huts and washing hanging on lines providing some alternative colours to green. But at some points the road is so dusty that the surrounding vegetation, buildings and everything is orange, brown or grey depending on the colours of the dirt on the road. Its amazing how the vegetation can survive, and weird to look at.

In La Paz we did more of the same (internet, wandering, eating out) and also visited the fascinating Museo de Coca. We learnt how cocaine is produced (pretty labour intensive at first), how coca works and much more. Coca leaves were prohibited by the Catholic church with the Spanish invasion, but when the emperors realised that indigenous slaves worked harder with it, it was allowed again. Coca is actually not at all harmful or addictive and it has helped us with the altitude at times, but it was the European production of cocaine that caused all the trouble later. And yes coca cola was made with actual cocaine, but not now. However it is still flavoured with coca leaves. I also didn´t know that Sigmund Freud was one of the first consumers of cocaine. Maybe that explains some of his assertions.

We were really sad to leave both Ronald and Bolivia, we would have liked to see Sorata, Cochabamba and more of Sucre. Still, the thought of heading to warmer climes is also appealing. Another hot and crowded bus with infernal non-stop music and we were in Arequipa, Peru.

Arequipa is a beautiful city known as ciudad blanca (white city). While Lawrence was recovering from some kind of flu (not swine) watching Wimbledon in one of the first hotels we have stayed in, I sat on the Plaza de Armas enjoying the sunshine. It reminds me a little of Cusco or Sucre in Bolivia, with its white collonaded balconies on three sides. The remaining side is filled with the huge white cathedral, whcih is quite impressive and contains the largest organ in South America. I heard a brass band parade, together with traditional dancers like we saw on Aymara new year in Coroico. Every day in South America appears to either be a festival of some kind, or a strike. Then it was a parade to encourage people to vote for the Canyon del Colca to be one of the 7 wonders of the world. We´ll let you know how we find it when we get there. Today is another strike day hence we´re not there yet.

I also visited the Jesuit church, Iglesia de la Compania, with an ornate facade and churriquersque altar (Latin American adaptation of Spanish baroque), very intricate and eloborate and completely covered in gold leaf. The plaza has a nice fountain in the middle, with hundreds of pigeons, encouraged by locals who feed them and try to get their photos taken with as many pigeons as possible, the closer the better. They obviously don´t share the same opinion of them as I do. But Arequipa is gorgeous, and everone we have met has been really friendly. El Misti and mountains overlook the valley.They make great cakes too, which helps. Here I must also thank Eileen and Michael, who have given us the means to escape the soup and chicken and cold chips and/or rice routine. Things are looking up!

Still taking the chance to see some more history while Lawrence is in bed, I went to Casa de Moral, an old colonial house. It was really atmospheric and filled with old paintings, maps and carved wooden furniture and heavy doors. It had a glorious courtyard and wealth appeared to be in abundance. It would have been nice, if unethical, to live like that.

When Lawrence was feeling a bit better we got up early to catch the bus to Corire, in order to see the Toro Muerto petroglyphs. They were a bit further than we thought, but we had a free lift in the back of a pick up for part of the trek. We walked through desert, overlooking the oasis town below. Then we came upon the carvings, there are thousands of them, made around 1200 years ago. There are zigzags, snakes, llamas, parrots, eagles, people etc, all with a nice form and childlike brilliance. It was great but also very hot and afterwards we got the bus back to Arequipa, where we have spent a few more days. Yesterday we went go-karting (soo cheap here!) and had a really fun time racing round the track, though it was only afterwards we noticed the beautiful surroundings, we were too busy tring to overtake each other. We have eaten much better, enjoying some steak, chinese, vegetarian and middle-eastern food. So I don´t really mind waiting for the strikes to finish, we have hammocks and sunshine so who cares?!