Again I was up early to watch the sunrise, this time from St Kilda beach (St Kilda NZ not Au!). It was a bright sunny day with no wind so I decided to drive over the hills back to the Otago Peninsula, stopping to admire the view of the sea on both sides. I stopped at a little cafe in Portobello for breakfast and then drove on to the peninsula. I didn't see any penguins this time, just an albatross circling above. The views were amazing, the ocean was so blue! And so was the sky!!

I then drove along the coast road back to Dunedin to join the Southern Scenic Route Road (the NZ equivalent of the great ocean road). The road starts off following the coast past golden beaches before heading inland. The drive then goes through farmland and forests, and then back to the coast and so on and so forth. I planned to stay at Curio Bay, another spot popular with penguins, seals & sea lions. Curio Bay is 180km and takes around 2 & a half hours from Dunedin.

It was only 12 when I left Dunedin so I had around 5 hours before it started getting dark. I therefore wasn't in a rush and could stop & admire the many view points. I took many pictures of beautiful scenery and sunny deserted beaches (in many places there was just a grass verge or a few rocks between the road and the sea), and this time I'd researched motels & b&bs etc and knew there were many around, I figured I'd pick one when I got there as it wouldn't be late....So you can probably guess how this story ends....

by 2.30 I was half way at nugget point but after only seeing one penguin I decided to search out seals and sea lions. Lonely Planet suggested there might be some at Cannibal Bay - but failed to mention it was a half hour round trip off the road! And sadly there were no seals or sea lions there (just signs advising of the dangers of approaching them). Likewise there were none at Surat Bay (another 25min detour) nor Purakauni Bay (15 min detour). By this point it was after 4 so I thought it best to head straight to Curio Bay for 5/5.30 It meant I'd miss out the various waterfalls in the Caitlins Rainforest but it would be worth it to watch the penguins & see seals & sea lions. However, I hadn't banked on another detour....a bridge over the river at Papatowai was being repaired - the detour upstream to the next bridge took another half hour!

And then it started to rain....and then it got very dark very quickly....was clearly no chance of seeing penguins or seals, it was hard to see any thing at all as I drove into Curio Bay. In fact all I could see was sign after sign saying 'no vacancy'.
Oh heck!! With the wind and rain on a dark road it was turning into something out of horror film - and it is Friday 13th!

Finally I came across Dolphin Lodge, a backpacker hostel. Yea! I walked up the steps to find reception closed (oh heck!) but luckily there was a phone number! A lovely lady answered & explained I could help myself to a vacant room (the keys would be in the door if it was available) and we'd sort the money in the morning. I was saved! Is v trusting of the hostel to do that - but perhaps this happens a lot???

The wind and rain is still howling outside. It did stop briefly as I went down to the car to collect my things & I noticed how bright the stars were - thousands of them inc the Milky Way - v pretty! But would have preferred to have seen penguins, seals & sea lions!! I'd also have preferred to have had dinner. Unfortunately it being wilderness there are no shops at all! So definitely no take always either! I have just a banana to last me until I drive a further 60km tomorrow!!

Have booked a motel for tomorrow and made sure it's close to the town centre with food sources open past 8pm!! I'll get the hang of this travelling life eventually!! Or will book an organised tour next time!!