Day 18 - 19: We instantly felt the difference when we arrived in Montenegro - which has a distinct underdeveloped feel compared to the highly developed tourist areas of Croatia. The roads are dusty - the odd cow and burnt out car at the side of the road...this is the Eastern Europe we had imagined. We drove round a beautiful fjord to a town called Kotor with a high fort above the mirrored water. It was as beautiful as Bled in Slovenia but did not have the infrastructure.

We had our cheapest night so far at a campsite on the edge of the water (£5) but you get what you pay for (no hot water, long drop loos - good preparation for Africa!) It had a certain charm and we enjoyed chatting to the other campers who were all Serbian and very interested in what we were doing.

We followed the coast through Southern Montenegro to Lake Shodra on the Albanian border. The border crossing was our first experience of documentation inquisition - no doubt many more like it to come...