Well, the last few days have been rather low-key because the New Zealand spring weather finally caught up with us. On Monday, the sky was overcast in Lake Tekapo and the clouds were low. We went for a walk along the beach - the lake was still a pretty colour, but without the sun to reflect on it, the brilliant turquoise colour was lost. We spent the afternoon at the hotpools, a great warm activity for a lousy weather day. We just hung around the campground that evening and made some homemade mac 'n cheese as comfort food.

Hoping to catch up with the sun (as we'd been so lucky to do on our trip so far), we headed out Tuesday morning, heading toward the East coast. We had planned to spend the day wandering around Christchurch and spend the night camping just outside of town. Well, firstly the weather was not at all cooperative and there was a light rain most of the day, but secondly, and the real reason our plans changed, the city of Christchurch is still a complete ghost town. We parked downtown hoping to get a feel for the city but as soon as we got out of the car, it became apparent that there was not a lot of city left to see. It was heart-wrenching to look around and realize that the roads were not closed for summer construction, but because the buildings around were so badly damaged, or gone altogether, that it wasn't safe to drive or walk down them. Block after block of the downtown core was closed off, buildings were in pieces and shops were empty. There were cranes and building equipment around the city, yes, but we were told that largely the rebuilding effort hasn't even begun because the area is still receiving aftershocks from the February earthquake. There was a small area downtown with tiny, newly built shops to try to bring people downtown, but we didn't stay long. I honestly wanted to cry as we drove out of what I'm sure used to be such a vibrant, beautiful city. The areas around the downtown core seem too be thriving and moving on, but Mark said the downtown area reminded him of downtown Detroit. I agree, so much potential but it was sad and hollow.

We went just north of the city to camp for the night to Leithfield Beach. It was a cold, rainy, windy night so we tucked ourselves into our Rocketvan and watched a movie on our laptop.

Yesterday, we drove off in another rainy morning and headed toward Kaikoura. This small town right on the Pacific ocean is known for it's wildlife tours but with the wind and rain we weren't really up for a whale-watching boat ride. Instead, we geared up and walked the Kaikoura Peninsula walkway. We were skeptical at first because it was a bricked trail (and we usually prefer the more rugged hikes), but once you got up over the first giant hill, the trail was gravel and led to some incredible lookouts over the sea and the bays in the area. Luckily, the rain kept away and the clouds started to lift so that we could see all the rolling hills in the area. It was crazy windy but the weather kept improving and eventually we could see beautiful snow-capped peaks lining the coast.

We followed the trail and it brought us down to a beach where gulls were nesting, and man, do they ever get cranky if they think you're too close to their young!!! Ask Mark to do an impression of the gull that was weaving about a foot from my head and screaching! Even though I was on the path I was still too close I guess! On the rocks at the end of this beach there was a small seal colony lazing around. So fun to watch. We followed the beach around and were treated to more and more seals and nesting birds. Eventually, we walked back up to the main trail and back to the van. We had a great fish and chips dinner in town and then headed to a campground to set up for the night. By the time we were settling in there, the sun had finally come out! We had a happy hour out at the back of the property and watched the sun set behind the mountains.

Unfortunately, we woke up to clouds again today. But no rain so I guess I can't really complain. After hitting up a used book store, we again headed north towards Blenheim. On the way, we found the amazing Ohau waterfall walk. It's a short hike up a wooded path to a beautiful, secluded waterfall set on green, mossy rocks deep in the forest. But, the best part of it all, seal pups swim up the stream from the beach to this waterfall during the day while their moms hunt and fish. We saw 5 or 6 young seals swimming in the waterfall basin and playing in the stream. They didn't even notice we were there, they were just goofing around. New Zealand really has done a great job in conservation - this trail leads you to this amazing seal playground and is completely protected.

This afternoon in Blenheim, we did a self-guided wine tour to sample some great area reislings (and included one craft brewery as well!), so good. Tonight, we are camping just outside of Blenheim at a very quirky campground. Our site is nice and backs onto a little stream. Just upstream from us, however, is a giant school of eels that the campground owners seem to be keeping as pets. They all hang out in one area and you are encouraged to feed them. They will take food out of your hand (!) and even slide up onto the rocky ground to get closer to you. Very interesting indeed.

This will be our last night on the South island and we are sad to leave. We catch the ferry from Picton to Wellington tomorrow morning and hope to drive back to Tongariro National Park to get one more chance at hiking the Tongariro Alpine Crossing. Crossing our fingers for better weather for Saturday or Sunday!