A three hour coach drive north to much greener countryside, past poplars and olive trees to Umm Qais and the ruins of the old Roman city of Gadara, site of the biblical story of the Gadarene swine and a viewpoint over the Sea of Galilee or Lake Tiberius with the Israeli city of Tiberius on its far shore, overshadowed by the Golan Heights, its strategic military importance all too obvious, and Syria and Lebanon beyond in the mist. Only the River Jordan marks an obvious border between Israel and Jordan. Other borders as ever manmade depending sadly on the conflicts of the era.

After another megalunch of enormous round naan like bread and the usual filling variety of salads and dips, this time followed by large copper pans of minced lamb, covered in herbs or a layer of tahini we took our groaning stomachs around the impressive ruins of Jerash, a large roman city. In the remains of the roman theatre two desert police patrolmen in long khaki robes, red tasselled leather belt, red and white checked kaffiyehs played us traditional Scottish songs on a drum and bagpipes, the result of the British army occupation after WW1. Via the guide the bagpipe player regaled us with tales of getting lost in Swindon on a visit with the Jordanian army, after which cultural mix we drove back to our Dead Sea hotel, past Bedouin tents with goats and a Mercedes flatbed truck outside and often a large satellite dish. Beside the road squat long robed, kaffiyeh headed men or burkah clad women with their goats, or the flocks roam freely as do donkeys and the occasional camel. Whenever we return from higher ground to the lowest point on the earth at some 420m below sea level our ears pop and our water bottles scrunch up with the increase in pressure.

Dinner is predictably large and it is impossible not to overeat. Some alcohol is available this time, but we decide to see how long we can go without as it feels more comfortable to respect the local culture, and there is too much food to leave room for alcohol anyway. I took an extra vest and 2 cardigans after the chilly experience the night before, but of course we ate inside, it was boiling and despite my best endeavours to dress modestly I had to strip to my vest.