We left the Agra hotel early, if not bright, in order to reach our final Agra-based site - Fatehpuri Sikri or The City of Victory. This monument is also known as the Forgotten City and was such a sight to see. It was founded in 1571 by the Mughal emperor Akbar to celebrate the birth of his son and heir (despite many wives, he’d remained heirless until 1569.) The city was the capital of the Mughal empire until just 1585 when Akbar departed to fight a military...

We left Delhi only 13 minutes late, which as you know, in India, counts as being 100% on time. Apparently it can be a 5 hour drive... 2 hours to leave Delhi, then 2.5 hours on the expressway to Agra... then at least 30 minutes to get into Agra. Which all actually went to plan. Even the expressway was recognisable as an actual road. Our first stop on arrival in Agra was the Red Fort - Massive. Huge. Unmissable. We imagine it’s where everything is measured fr...

Sleep. We remember sleep. Fondly. Vaguely. We had a good breakfast and hit the road at 8.30 am for what proved to be a massive, huge day of sightseeing. We started off on the coach and job one was a bicycle rickshaw ride around old Delhi. We figured as there was no motor involved, the travel insurance would definitely cover any mishaps - but we survived and it was actually great fun - not at all the extreme experience we thought it would be. Can’t say we’...

Just. Too. Much. Travel. This was officially a travel day. Not a ‘See’ or ‘Do’ or even a ‘Pack’ day... just a travel day. And a very, very long one. We had a sleep in and a leisurely breakfast, then a final walk along the Shimla Mall Road in the fresh mountain air - enjoying the morning chill and the sunshine. We walked out of the hotel at 11.15 am then, with one stop, made it down the hill road in a mere 5 and a quarter hours. Which is not bad for...

Aside from the tigers and our wonderful stay in Ranthambore, Rajasthan - Shimla is, undoubtedly, our favourite place in India so far. The elevation - about 8000 feet - is superb - we feel like we’re breathing fresh air for the first time in a very long time. The air is very crisp and it was only 2 degrees when we got up - bracing enough for me to wear my fur coat and for James to have multiple layers - long sleeve T-shirt, jumper and down puffy jacket - alo...