We decided to go to Bolivia as we had more time than expected left in South America and several people had recommended the salt flat tours to us. The fact that it is the cheapest country in South America was also very appealing as we needed to live cheap for a while to stay within our budget. We got the bus to the border at La Quiaca and crossed over to Villazon on the Bolivian side. As soon as we crossed the border we could tell that Bolivia was very different to Argentina. Ladies were dressed in traditional clothing and the streets instantly smelt different because of all the food stalls. There was lots of hustle and bustle and people instantly trying to sell us bus tickets and other various things. We bartered with a couple of vendors for a bus ticket to Tupiza (2 hours away), which cost us less than £1.50 each. As we sat in the bus station we watched everything around us. The change made Argentina feel even more European and we had a sense that we had crossed in to what we both expected South America to be like.

Tupiza is a small town with little to do apart from explore the surrounding gorges and canyons. There are also tours to the Salt Flats however on the advice of Francois and Capucini we knew that we were going to do ours from Uyuni. After checking in to our hotel ( we can afford hotel prices in Bolivia!) we went out for an early dinner as we had not eaten all day. We then spent the evening watching lots of rubbish films on the cable tv in our room!

The next day we went in to the town to buy our bus tickets and to look about. There was a market in town too. The day was really hot, the Bolivians seem used to the heat as they wear lots of layers even when the temperature is 30+. After visiting the internet cafe to book our hostel in Uyuni we went to the local shop to get some snacks and drinks, we had missed breakfast because we were confused of the time in Bolivia. Whilst in the shop Rachel had one of her 'shakey' episodes where she needs food and to sit down, although lasted longer than normal. J quickly paid for the drinks, there was no time to get food because Rachel was panicking she was going to faint because she could not see! Looking back at it she does find it funny, but at the time she didn't! Luckily it was only a short walk back to the hostel, Rachel was holding on to J tripping up all over the place being stared at by all the Bolivians who obviously thought it was another weak tourist who couldn't handle the temperature and altitude. Once in the hostel she fainted to the floor but came around quickly and went to lay down on the bed and had some drink. J went out to get some snacks and Rachel began to feel better quickly. We had a lazy day at the hostel and then went to a local Parilla for dinner, which was really tasty and so cheap for what we got. We got 4 different types of meat each and rice and baked potato for £3 each!

After a 7 hour bone-shaking, bum-aching bus journey in which it seemed we were crammed in to the bus with half of the farm produce from Tupiza we finally arrived in Uyuni. The bus journey was horrid and we were glad that it would be our last in Bolivia. This was mainly because it was just a long a gravel road which snaked through the Bolivian Andes. After walking around for some time trying to find our hostel we eventually found it and then went for some dinner. We tried to find out about some tours to the salt flats, but the agency we were recommended didn't have an English speaking guide, which we wanted so we decided at breakfast we would speak to people at the hostel.

Our research at the hostel didn't help our decision of which agency to travel with much. Some people had done the tour from Tupiza and others were only going on a 1 day tour. We then went and asked in some agencies and settled on Andes Salt Expeditions, as the man in the office could speak English so we were able to clarify everything with him. We chose the 3 day tour with 2 nights accommodation then transfers to San Pedro Atacama.

The next morning we waited for all of the group to turn up and the jeeps to be filled up with petrol. There were two full jeeps leaving from our tour company. There was another 4 tourists in our jeep and the driver and tour guide (Juan and Gonzalez). An Australian guy called Dorf, a German guy called Luis (who was travelling on his bicycle) and a couple from Australia too, Nick and Sarah. Everybody was really nice and a good laugh. Our first stop would be the train graveyard. We were glad we paid extra for an English guide as Gonzalez could give an explanation to all of our questions. He told us a little story about how Butch and Cassidy, famous American cowboys were murdered in a neighbouring village as they had stolen gold, which was quite interesting.

The tour then continued to the Salar del sur (the salt flat). The salt flats were blinding white and stretched 1200km2. We made several stops here, the first was where the people collect salt to sell. The salt is 120m thick. Only the local village is allowed to mine from the salt flats, earning 30 Bolivianos for a truck full (£3). This is the average daily wage in Bolivia. We then stopped at a place where you could find salt crystals through gaps in the salt. The third stop is where we had lunch and time to take some silly photos. Served for lunch was Kinwa (a local grain) and lama! During the lunch we were all trying to guess what the meat was, as it was very salty and tough. Rachel stopped eating it as was freaked out what it might be, but J went back for seconds. The drivers then found it amusing to tell us it was lama. We then drove to an island in the middle of the salt flats, where giant cacti grow. We climbed to a viewing point on the island and then spent the rest of our time taking silly photos again. The boys were getting quite expert in lining them up. That night we stayed at a hostel where everything was made out of salt. After we had dinner Gonzales gave us a short history of Bolivia and said he would wake us at 4.30am for the sunrise. The group then played a mammoth game of yanif, because we were so remote we only had electricity until 9pm so most of the game was played in candle light.

The following day Gonzales must have slept in as he didn't wake us for the sunset. We had set our alarm though so managed to see it, although it wasn't that spectacular. The others found it funny and it became a standing joke during the jeep journeys. The following day we stopped at a viewing point of the volcano and at a couple of lagoons where there are flamingos. After lots of picture taking we were served lunch at the second; chicken, pasta and vegetables, In the chicken pot there was even the head for us, unsurprisingly this was left by everyone! Our next stop was the rock tree, carved like a tree shape by the wind. We had been increasing in altitude throughout the day and the temperature had been getting colder and the wind stronger. Our last stop was the red lagoon. The algae at the bottom made it this colour, it was pretty cool! There was quite a lot of distance between each stop, but it went quickly as there was also pretty scenery to look at and we had fun in the jeep with our group and played music through the ipod. Gonzales had warned us that the night would be cold and that the hostel 'really basic' which meant no heating, no showers and limited electricity. When we arrived we were pleasantly surprised, it wasn't as basic as everybody was thinking! After dinner we played another game of yanif, although with not as many people as the night before which was better and then played arse-hole, a game Francois had taught us in Salta. There was debate over the rules as it seemed they changed throughout the world but we finally settled on a mixture.

Our 4am wakeup call came from Gonzales the next morning. We were not prepared for how cold it was. We had shared a bed to make sure we were warm in the night but as soon as we got outside the wind was bitter. We all got in the jeep freezing and drove to the Geysers. We were now at nearly 5000m above sea level and it was freeeezing!! We had not prepared for temperatures like this packing our rucksacks, and were both in flip flops. Although we were not the only ones! As we got out of the jeep we ran to the geysers and Gonzales began to jump over them, we followed getting a warm blast of air each time. We didn't stay outside long though and quickly ran back in the jeep. Juan drove on a bit and then we got out again and ran a further distance where you could see more geysers and mud bubbling in a crater because of the volcanic activity. By this time our feet were so cold we jumped back in jeep quickly trying to find ways to warm up our toes. We then stopped off for breakfast where there were thermal pools. We quickly eat breakfast (pancakes and dulce leche) before jumping in the hot pools. The sun had rose by this time so it was no longer really cold outside. The temperature of the hot pools was 36 degrees. It was so nice and warmed us up well. Occasionally you had to get out on the side before getting back in because you got too hot! After about an hour at the pools we got changed and drove to our final stop of the day; Lagoona Verde (The Green Lagoon). This was an impressive the sight. The water was a beautiful colour and the volcano was in the background making the perfect settling. After some picture taking we had to get back in the jeep to make our connecting bus to Chile.