Fiji and Los Angeles

Our last two weeks of our big adventure have flown by and sadly it's now coming to an end. We're feeling a mixture of emotions right now: miserable that our incredible experiences will soon be over, but also hugely excited at the prospect of seeing friends and family, enjoying the summer back home after quite a long absence. We're finishing the trip on a high note though, having just spent two weeks in the South Pacific paradise of Fiji....

The first thing we noticed and loved about Fiji was the warm temperature as we stepped off the plane, blissful after weeks of winter weather in Australia and New Zealand. Being our last stint on the way home, we'd always planned that our fortnight in Fiji would be a relaxing holiday, a chance to wind down the pace after months on the road, and it was actually the first time we'd spent a few days somewhere doing a whole lot of nothing. We relished the slower pace of life with no particular plans as to where and when we wanted to go and what to see. This worked really well, as everything's done on 'Fiji time', i.e. things happen when they happen, there's never any particular urgency, and life in general in Fiji is very relaxed and chilled out.

Our flight landed in Nadi on the mainland island of Viti Levu, and after spending the night there we caught a local bus to the capital Suva on the other side of the island. We spent a really full day seeing the sight of the city, getting acquainted with Fiji's culture and history of cannibalism (yuk!) at the museum, shopping for local handicrafts and trying some traditional Fijian foods at cheap eateries and street vendors. We loved being back somewhere where we'd sleep at night with the ceiling fan on and nothing more than a thin sheet covering us, and where we'd welcome a cold refreshing shower - it was a welcome return to the conditions we'd become accustomed to in SE Asia. Even at half past eight in the morning the sun was blazing and the day heating up. In Suva we experienced the friendliness Fijians are renowned for - complete strangers would smile beamingly at us and greet us with a hearty "Bula!" We became quite used to hearing a cheerful "Bula, you two girls" as we wandered down the streets.

A short trip out of Suva took us to Colo-i-Suva Forest park where we stayed at the luxurious-feeling Raintree Lodge amongst the lush green rainforest and spent the afternoon exploring walking trails in the park. The natural swimming pools were really refreshing to plunge into, and the Indian Jones-style rope swing was fun way to enter the water...after 11 years it was still just as big and scary as Jess remembered it!

Feeling the need for some sunshine, where we stopped at the Beachouse backpackers resort. Their slogan, "low-cost luxury by the beach" was true, and even though we were camping there we felt like we were at a very upmarket resort, enjoying huge free breakfasts, afternoon tea, hammocks on the beach, friendly staff and a relaxed atmosphere. We loved it so much that it wasn't a difficult decision to stay an extra night than originally planned! We lounged on the beach, did a jungle trek up to a beautiful waterfall, made coconut wood jewellry and watched palm frond weaving, and tried kava, a traditional Fijian drink made from a narcotic root. Kava is a deep-rooted part of Fijian culture, and the root is sold in various forms all around the island from the municipal markets and specialised 'grog' shops. We couldn't see the attraction ourselves, it tastes like it looks - muddy water - so we didn't drink enough of it to feel the tingling lips and numb tongue it supposedly gives you.

Our next stop was Sigatoka where we visited Fiji's first National Park, the Sigatoka sand dunes - a huge system of undulating greyish dunes formed over thousands of years. We also visited a village well-known for its pottery and couldn't resist buying a couple of handmade items from the villagers as a unique souvenir.

One thing we'd both set our hearts on was seeing some of the picturesque sandy islands surrounded by crystal-clear turquoise water that Fiji's well-known for, so we caught a small speedboat over to Mana Island, part of the Mamanuca Islands group. We spent 5 nights there camping at a village homestay, pitching our tent right on the beach. Each morning we woke to the rustling of palm leaves, the lapping of wavelets on the shore, and an idyllic view of the turquoise lagoon as we unzipped the tent's door. We were welcomed at the homestay and told to think of them as a second family; the atmosphere was really relaxed and laid-back and everyone there got on so well that we soon felt at home; and every mealtime, as we helped ourselves to the plentiful spread of Fijian food we were urged by Mama, who produced it all, to "have some more darlings!" It really made us feel at home and we began to relax into the way of life on Mana and "Fiji time"!

Even though we spent a few days completely slowing down and chilling out on the beach, we still managed to do a few things. We saw some beautiful sunset and watched sunrise from a hilltop overlooking the nearby islands, had a kava ceremony and enjoyed a great fire-dancing and Pacific dances demonstration, played silly games with the other guest in the evening, and did LOADS of snorkeling. One afternoon we were very adventurous and set off on a huge snorkel with one of our new friends and ended up swimming about 3 miles out to the barrier reef and round the end of the island. The crystal-clear water, great coral formations and abundant colourful fish were worth the tired arms and legs! While at Mana it was really nice to be somewhere long enough to get to know people and form a group of friends, spending evenings chatting and swapping stories, something we haven't had much of a chance to do these last few months because we've always been on the move.

This idyllic existence had to come to an end at some point, and we reluctantly said farewell to Mana Lagoon and its residents. Catching the boat back to the mainland, we headed over to Lautoka, the second largest city on the island and home to the island's sugar industry. We arrived on a Sunday afternoon, when everything is shut and the day of rest is taken seriously, so for entertainment we went to the local cinema where we watched Ocean's 13 for a bargainous $5 Fijian (£1.55), followed by huge plates of spicy vegetable dishes for $3 - a very cheap night out! The next day, filling time before our flight to LA, we did some last minute souvenir shopping and spent our last Fijian dollars in Lautoka's shops and market.

It was with heavy hearts that we left Fiji, as the backpacking was now over and we felt like we were truly on the home stretch. On the flight we actually travelled back in time as we crossed the International Date Line, leaving Fiji at 10 o'clock Monday night and arriving in LA at 2 o'clock Monday afternoon! It was a bit confusing and disorientating to leave at one time and arrive earlier that same day. Almost like something out of Through the Looking Glass!

We're now in Los Angeles, sunny California, and have seen a fair bit in the couple of days we've been here. On our first night we met up with Andy, a guy who'd been on our flight out of Auckland and we'd befriended in Fiji, and went to a typically American diner for a scrummy thick milkshake, something that just had to be done! Our hostel is right in the heart of Hollywood within walking distance of lots of sights, and we spent yesterday looking at most of them: the Walk of Fame, Graumann's Chinese Theatre with all it's hand prints in the pavement outside, the Kodak Theatre (home of the Academy Awards ceremony), the Hollywood sign (visible from our hostel), markets, the Capitol Records Tower....finishing up with Mexican food for dinner, a bit of a contrast to the fish, cassava and coconut milk we'd become used to in Fiji! Today we ventured further afield to see Santa Monica with its famous pier and shopping centre and Venice Beach. They're just like they are on TV and films, with long stretches of beach dotted with lifeguard huts, people walking and rollerblading along the promenade in the Californian sun, fast-food joints and hotdog stands everywhere, Muscle Beach, and the vibrant market stalls and street performers along Venice Beach. Unfortunately we haven't bumped into and been swept off our feet by George Clooney of Johnny Depp, but we live in hope - we're still here for a few hours yet! LA is a complete contrast to the backpacking life we've led so far, but it's been a great couple of days, and we've really enjoyed ourselves. It's hard to believe that tomorrow we'll board a plane and wing our way over the Atlantic back home....

So now the "Big Adventure" is over, done and dusted, finito. We've had a FANTASTIC time, with a huge amount of memories and experiences behind us. Would we do it again? Yes, without a doubt, travelling has been so much fun and we wouldn't have missed it for the world. It sounds very cliched, but this has been a life-changing experience and we think that it's changed us a people, for the better we hope! We've really enjoyed ourselves the whole time, and hope that you have all enjoyed reading about what we've been up to. This travel journal has just been a taster, with it's few entries and photos, and we'll have many more to share with you all once we get home... We'll see you soon!