I am writing his sitting next to the Ganga river- possibly one of the most holy in the world.A week ago we started the long trip here from Jaisalmer in the West. It was even less pleasant for Charles who was still sick.First it was a 5 hour car ride to Jodhpur where we spent a night before boarding a very early train.12 hours later we arrived in Agra in the evening.There we were greeted by the first really rude tout that we have come across.He tried to charge us 200 rupees for 40 rupee ride into town and then got annoyed when we laughed and went to someone else. We grabbed some dinner in Agra and then went to a different station to get on a midnight train.Only it didn't arrive until 1.45am which was pretty exhausting.We sat with some of the homeless children that lived in the station. One of them had cut himself really badly on the side so we put some cream on it and bandaged him up. They were really sweet and it is just heartbreaking. Every time a policeman walked past he went to hit them out the way but when I said it was ok for them to sit with us they looked so happy and there was nothing he could do!

Eventually the train came but as always with the trains here it was unbelievably long.We were walking up the platform looking for the 3 tier sleeper and suddenly it started moving off!Thank goodness for the doors being open as we managed to jump into the doorway of another sleeper class.It was absolutely packed though and standing just in the doorway was all we could do- not so safe with our huge backpacks on! Luckily I think it had happened to a lot of people so the train stopped again and we had time to run down to the right carriage.Of course when we got there all the lights were off and everyone was asleep- including the people in our bunks. We had to get the guard etc and it was 2.30am by the time we lay down to listen to the ridiculously loud chorus of snoring around us!Four and a half hours later everyone in the carriage got up and started shouting, drinking chai and putting the beds away so we sat bleary eyed on a bottom bunk until we pulled into Khajuraho.

We had decided to go to Khajuraho as it is a small place so a nice change from cities. It also has some of reputedly the finest temple art in the world.Some of it is quite rude though and it is from the carvings here that the Karma Sutra was devised. Charles was still feeling very ill and so for him the first day was spent in bed.We made a friend- Papan who was really sweet and he helped me get him some medicines.That night we ate our first non Indian food since arriving 5 weeks ago and had a pizza- ill bellies can't really cope with spice! The next day we headed out to the temples but came back after visiting the southern set as Charles felt sick.Luckily the grand prix was on so he lay in the air conditioning watching that whilst I looked at more temples and was taken to Papan's house!Later on when he had recuperated a little we walked up to the Western set of temples which are the most preserved and absolutely stunning. The erotic carvings were really funny because they were just in a frieze alongside normal ones so you only realised what they were when you looked closely!

After our one night it was back on the train for an overnighter here to Varanasi.We were lucky to get this as it is a brand new service- just5 days old and is only in place after loads of people protested that it was impossible to get there. In stark contrast to all the others we have got this one was tiny- only 3 carriages!Because of this and late booking there wasn't much availability but with Charles still ill anyway we decided to splash out twenty pounds and treat ourselves to first class!We were glad we did- it was really cool- we got our own little cabin and could sleep whenever we wanted- bliss! When we got to Varanasi we felt like it was the first time we had got off a train feeling refreshed and not exhausted.As everywhere Varanasi is scorching- currently about 43 degrees.We got into a rickshaw to our guesthouse and sat in traffic absolutely solid for a long time. Our driver kept getting out and directing it all and thank goodness he did or we would probably still be there.We stopped when the streets became too narrow and had a 15 minute walk with our packs- just the ticket in the midday heat!

Varanasi is stunning and our room overlooks the Ganga river so we can watch all the goings on. This town is all about people watching which is world class as it is one of the holiest sites in the world for both Hindus and Buddhists.Mark Twain wrote "Benares (Varanasi) is older than history, older than tradition, older even than legend, and looks twice as old as all of them put together." The town itself is beautiful with lovely houses either side of tiny walkways and gorgeous architecture along the river front.This morning we went on a dawn boat ride at 6am and it was great. We rowed along looking at all the washing wallas beating the clothes to death, people bathing and saying their morning prayers and monks meditating along the river bank.We also went up to the burning ghat.If you are Hindu Varanasi is pretty much the place to die and the most holy cremation is done at a ghat on the river bank.The family purchases wood with different types available depending on the budget (sandalwood is most expensive.)This is then weighed out on huge scales and then piled around the body which has been soaked in the Ganga. The family walk around it 5 times and then it is set fire to where it takes about 3 hours to burn.This all happens out in plain view 24 hours a day and was an amazing sight to see.

The biggest shame of course is the pollution.The Ganga is one of the most polluted rivers in the world and the sewage systems run right into it let alone all the plastic and packaging floating around.When I saw it I thought there's no way I would bath in that- but apparently we have been- it flows into every building in Varanasi out of the taps! As I write this Charles is having a Tabla (Indian drum) lesson. It started out for both of us but I gave up after about half an hour- I am just not coordinated enough! So I am about to go back and watch what he has learnt- no doubt it will be a new obsession and we will have to buy a pair for home!