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New Zealand has a great many wonderful 3-5 day walking tracks. The QCT is distinguished by the fact that your big pack or luggage is moved for you daily by water taxi, leaving you to hike, mountain bike or sea kayak (or a combination of all three) from one spot to the next. There are campgrounds, b&b's and 4 and 5 star lodges to choose from along the way.
We started at the end of the track, km 71, Ship Cove. This is the place where Captain Cook spent over 100 days in total. The cove is protected, but near open water and has fresh water streams. Cook grounded his ships here, scraped their hulls and re-caulked and stocked them. There's a monument to him here.
The first 45 minutes was pretty much switchback straight uphill, and I was questioning the wisdom of my choice. I was a little worried that it might be too much for Gus. But that was the worst of it over. Now just 15kms to go!
The vegetation was surprisingly lush and dense, but changed pretty dramatically w elevation. Winds are stronger, soil is poorer and temps noticeably cooler higher up. Lots of spectacular views through the day. Stopped for lunch around 11:30 and watched a large pod of dolphins frolic way down below. Pulled into the lodge just before 14:00. Not bad, considering lots of time taken for photos and lunch.
Had a really great tasting cold beer after checking out our room. Had a quick nap and a leisurely afternoon reading. Pretty decent meal in the pub, played some cards and sound asleep by 22:00!
16th
Woke up very early and had a little toodle around as breakfast didn't start until 08:30 (!?!). Many people impatient to get out on the track, and service was abominable. After a perfectly awful meal, we took a short hike up to a waterfall. Even though it states the track is not maintained by the DOC, it was well marked and easy to follow even if a machete would have come in handy once or twice.
Caught the boat back (was not able to sell Gus more than one day of the "up a hill, down and back-bloody-up again"). Lovely scenic ride back, in and out of bays picking up and dropping off people, luggage and supplies.
Once back in Picton, we headed off for the west coast, stopping in late afternoon in the charming little town of Murchison. Sweet churches and lots of old buildings. There is a plaque on the old hotel describing the only gunshot ever fired in town, by accident. Checked in to a little motel and BBQ'd ourselves a nice steak. Really great to have a homemade meal of steak, potatoes and salad.
This is the fun part. We went out for a walk after dinner and just as we were leaving, we heard a police car siren. The entire town rushed out onto the streets. The volunteer fire department siren, above our heads, then went off. Apparently, someone stole a car in Nelson, there was a long police chase and the guy dumped the car down by the "hospital". (This is a town of 400). Now they were looking for the guy, and that's why they needed the volunteer fire brigade. How this instantly became general knowledge, I have no idea. Everyone was very excited!
I believe the Lions club is already fundraising for the new plaque to commemorate the evening's events.
The following day off to NZ's longest, highest swing-bridge, and to do the zip-line. The bridge was a whole helluva a lot scarier, let me tell you! On to have a walk around Cape Foulwind, named by Cook one seriously crappy winter, later Punakaiki, the pancake rocks and then for 3 nights in Hokitika. Late afternoon by the time we arrived. Tight for choice, checked into the Beachfront for one night, later to move to a motel w a kitchenette. Had a decent "french" meal, w a bottle of crap wine that I'm certain they cooked up in the bath tub last week. They don't open the bottle in front of you, as a rule.
Kiwi's don't so much like to dine as strap on the feedbag, so if you don't control the meal by ordering in steps, the appetizer will arrive before your aperitif, and the main course before you've finished that. Live and learn.
Enough for now!
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