Yet another early breakfast in a new location. We sailed overnight to the island of Santiago, a 12 hour trip which I think was accomplished in about 10 hours.

By 7.30 we were breakfasted, life jacketed and aboard our panga. We hung back for the second panga so we didn't have Liza. Yeah I felt a bit guilty, but everyone has had enough, even the crew have been remarking about it. Liza said to me this morning that she thought that our guide Marie was in need of a holiday because she had snapped at her.

Really?

The panga ride was over an hour and a half and was brilliant!

We went out to a couple of guano covered stacks to see the Nazca Boobies and the BFBs.  As we returned to the bay where the ship was anchored we saw a school of Yellow Tailed Surgeon fish, mixed in with a host of King Angel fish which are a stunning orange, black and white.

We were just emerging from a deep cave when we came across an enormous Manta Ray. It swam right around us but unfortunately you really need a polaroid lens to take photos of fish in the water. I have a blurry image!

It was a wonderful trip, the fish were easily visible and there were many seabirds and sea lions.

Sorry, can't concentrate on writing anymore, the mindless Liza is on deck and won't shut up. Next up is a quick shift of position and a trip to the beach with possible snorkelling.

This was an amazing long beach with rocks down one side which makes an excellent haunt for our piscatorial pals. I trotted down to the water's edge with snorkel and snorkel vest, all ready to rock and roll.

Erm, not this time either. The clip holding the snorkel to the mask had sheared off. I tried putting the mask on and tucking the snorkel down the strap but it interfered with the seal and my mask kept filling up with seawater. I did manage to see a lot of fish though  - in a very short time. Although Marie offered to get them to bring out another snorkel, I decided not to bother, the gods have decided that I am not to be a sub aquatic human and that's that!

So I went off for a stroll along the beach which was really enjoyable. It was covered in red crabs, their tracks and their burrows. Also there were loads of turtle tracks where they had dragged themselves up the beach to lay eggs in the dunes. We're not allowed to go near the nests for obvious reasons.

Back on board, we had lunch and then have now shifted position to Punta Egas for more swimming and then a walk. Every day starts early and ends at 6pm. It can be very tiring, most people are getting a bit weary, especially with the intense heat. I have passed on the swimming and have packed my case as best I can. I was pleased to find that my bar bill was only $108 so far, which means that since I started my holiday in Miami I have only spent $450, most of which is in the form of tips for the guide and the crew. Ecuador is cheap, once you're here.

Our final walk was along the lava fields and seashore of Santiago. There were only three of us on the panga, the rest were either already there or not going. There was a 3 week old baby sea lion by the start of the path, sleeping under the shade of a rock. Marie seemed to think that it would not live as she thought perhaps the mother had been killed by a shark. Other female sea lions don't go in for adoption unfortunately, and even chase away other's babies. Earlier on in the week we had seen a sea lion mother with a huge shark bite on her back. Luckily for her baby, she had managed to escape and return but she must have been in terrible pain. The Galapagos National Park does not appear to go in for any hand raising or interference so this poor little baby will probably die very soon. 

The walk was quite challenging because of the uneven boulders and lava we had to walk over. Nevertheless it was a beautiful walk, lots of tidal pools, common sea lions lounging about relaxing after a long day at sea. We met a party of kindred tourists and their guide and their guide and our guide exchanged notes. Apparently there were no fur seals on Santiago, not since 1997, the El Nino year which altered a lot of the habitats on the islands.

I was up front chatting to Marie when we heard a noise. 'What was that?' she asked. Well, I thought she'd lost the plot as I could see what had made the noise quite clearly. I said  ' Well it could be those sea lions over there?' she went mental, almost turning cart wheels..... apparently the fur seals were back after all, the first time she had seen them in 17 years!

So we had one happy guide, especially as the other guide had missed them!

Back on the boat I felt very sad to be leaving this wonderful place tomorrow. We were given a farewell cocktail by the captain and then we went up for dinner. We have all been given envelopes for tips for the crew and Marie. Some people are quibbling about how much has been suggested but I believe the amount to be fair as wages are very low in Ecuador and they have all worked long hours with happy smiles.

The bad news is that we will be travelling overnight to North Seymour Island so it'll be a bit of a noisy night. The other bad news is that I have to be up at 5am ready to go walking at 5.45! Aaaaarrrggghhh!