We strike a Marlin trolling halfway to the BVI'S. She is beautiful and quickly released when she gets close to BP, after jumping for us close to the boat. We cross a large seamount known as Barracuda Reef that rises from 500 to 50 meters, but no fish are caught.
We arrive at 'Virgin Gorda', one of the four principle islands of the group, there are also another 50 smaller Islands.
We anchor in St. Thomas Bay next to the islands main town, Spanish Town. Paul went to clear passports at customs and immigration and was rudely told that the cashier was closed, and come back in the morning. He is not happy as the office is supposed to open till 4.30 pm and we have arrived in plenty of time to clear in. By tender we visit 'The Baths', famous large rock formations on the beach. This is a must visit as it is spectacular with huge granite boulders forming caves and passageways. It is a 20 minuet hiking trail with great light and reflections as the sun goes down. The next morning we cruise to the next end of Virgin Gorda, to 'Prickly Pear Island'. This is a beautiful large sheltered anchorage with lots of white sandy beaches. This is what you imagine the Caribbean is all about. Located on a small Island is a boutique hotel and bar called 'Saba Rock' and nearby is the resort and Marina of 'Bitter End'. Both are designed in older woody traditional style and have a great atmosphere. Again we are lucky it is low season as it is quiet.
In the afternoon we go fishing to get live bait for our campaign to catch one of the 20-80 pound Tarpon that frequent the back of the boat at night. We catch 6 small snapper like fish which we keep alive in the esky with an aerator. We are told live bait seems to be the only way to catch these monsters. We have had only one hook up with the Tarpon, with a bust off. So, we have upped our gear capacity. That night we try for an hour with our live bait, we have only one strike. The fish immediately rejects the bait. We are going to have a lesson on Monday, fly fishing for Bone Fish and Tarpon.
Wednesday. We visit Bitter End with Christy to obtain food supplies. There isn't much here in the way of fresh fruit and vegetables, we need to go the the capital of Road Town on the Island of 'Tortola'.
In the afternoon we take the tender to troll on the outside reef. While we are fishing we circumnavigate Sir Richard Branson's Island 'Necker'. He has a large impressive complex spread over a number of buildings. One group of buildings built right on the end of a rocky headland. We only caught two Barracuda which seem in abundance here, which we released.
We took the crew for beach volley ball, which everybody enjoys. Then we swim, then beers on the beach as the sun goes down.
Thursday. Paul thinks there might be some swell coming in the next 24 hours, so we head off to the northwest of Tortola island to look at Cane Garden Bay. All the islands are within 5-15 nautical miles apart. Cane Garden Bay has a narrow entrance through a shallow reef. It was crowded so we headed across the 'Francis Drake Channel' to 'Little Jost Van Dyke Island'. Another beautiful anchorage, including 'Green Cay', a delightful small sandy cay with some green foliage.
We took the tender to troll the north side of the larger 'Jost Van Dyke Island'. On the trip we catch another Barracuda. We pass a young local guy fishing with his baby perched between his legs, who was catching mackerel tuna and small yellow fin tuna. We later meet him to learn more about local fishing. Jost Van Dyke island is quiet small, but it is still one of the four largest in the BVI'S. It is several Kms long with a high mountain ridge, stunning large bays with beautiful white beaches on the south side. The north is high rugged rocky cliffs.
Friday. MB is up very early hoping the swell is large enough to surf. Paul had surfed the breakwater at Cane Garden Bay 12 years ago. It was breaking over shallow reef and not quiet good enough. So we headed west to another known break, 'Canoon Bay'. One guy was in the water when we arrive with a few getting ready to go in. So, in we go Paul, Christy and MB. The surf is not big but there are waves big enough to have a fun surf. We have two hours in the water. There are only six other guys and girls surfing. They are a great friendly bunch making it a really enjoyable morning.
In the afternoon we take Black Pearl back to Cane Garden Bay, on the north west side of Tortola. This time it is not crowded. We go ashore to get a taxi to take us into Road Town, the capital of the BVI'S. Road Town is on the opposite side of the island over a high mountain, with a steep winding road. The whole of the BVI 'S has a population of 28,000. 80% of the population live in Road Town and surrounds. The country is a principle tax haven with many off shore account companies. Together with tourism it has made this island country quiet prosperous.
There is a celebration going on in the town with a fun market in the centre where local music is playing. There are many stalls selling handcrafts, organic fruit and vegetables and of course local rum. The principle street is called ' Main Street', which has small old colourful shop houses, some housing the many financial business' of this tax haven. We have lunch at an art gallery cafe called 'Grass Roots' where we bought some old Caribbean sea charts. We buy some local rum ( would you believe we have run out on BP ). We also buy some fruit and a natural product 'Shea Butter', from Africa which we are told is great nourishing skin cream and a great sunblock. Back onboard Paul tells us he has been riding the breakwater surf break at Cane Garden.
We then head off across to Grand Harbour at Jost Van Dyke Island. Marius Webb, who went to school with Marcus Burke and MB, has a sister here who is married to the infamous 'Foxy Callwood'. Tess and Foxy own and run a large colourful bar and restaurant on the beach in this harbour. We have had an introduction from Marius and we go ashore and meet Tess. We have a great time with this lovely lady drinking rum punches and we later meet Foxy. He is larger than life great character. His family are descended from African slaves who settled on the island. He is renowned in this part of the world and has recently received an MBE from the Queen for services to tourism and community affairs. One of his greatest assets is his wife Tess who seems to be the manager of their business. Their bar restaurant is real beach style all open air and decorated with hundreds of autographed T- Shirts, flags and business cards all of which have been left and collected over the last 40 years.
Saturday. We invited Tess and Foxy for lunch on BP. Before we pick them up we take a walk along the white sand road of the beachfront. It is not a long road but has many old shacks which are colourful bars and shops. There are lots of pirate terminology used in their titles, signs and memorabilia.
Over lunch we learn how Foxy met Tess in a bar in Gibraltar 42 years ago. Foxy invited her onto a yacht on which he was sailing that was heading back to the BVI'S, she accepted and never looked back. Tess is a delightful intelligent fun loving person. Foxy is a real showman with an infectious and charming smile, who loves to entertain with stories and songs. Foxy gave us a signed CD of his famous singing.
That afternoon we go fishing and manage to hook a 'Blue Runner', a Trevally family fish, which was good eating.
That evening we have dinner at 'Foxy's'. Tess is very generous and shouts us all our food and drinks. Her stepson runs the music and we dance with a large fun loving crowd. It must be unbelievable in high season as we are told there can be up to 1000 boats on the island.
Sunday. We go in a Taxi back at Cane Garden Bay, to mass in Road Town.
It is Pentecost Sunday and the choir and members of the congregation are dressed in red. This is a great fun celebration with singing and clapping hands. The parish priest arrives singing and dancing. It is all very joyous, and the choir is amazing.
This afternoon we are off to 'Salt Island' to scuba dive on the wreck of 'The Rhone', the Royal Mail ship sunk in a freak hurricane in 1867.
We thought we needed a dive permit so we call into the small town of 'Sophie's Hole', a very neat, colourful waterfront town. We find a very friendly dive master who informs us we do not need a permit. He also makes several helpful suggestions even though we are not using his services.
We anchor at 'Peter Island', a very natural, pretty anchorage. Then we travel 3 nautical miles in the tender to salt island, to snorkel and scuba dive on this 100 metre long shipwreck that ran aground then split in two. We dived and snorkelled on the stern section, which was stunning seeing large snapper, tarpon and good coral growth.
Monday. We are up early for our bone fish session with our guide Ian. We met him at Trellis Bay and drove to 'Beef Island'. After a quick refresher lesson on fly casting, we wade for some 4.5 hours through shallow lagoons, with weed strewn bottom. Ian wanted us to catch 9-10 pound Bone Fish. We would have been happy to catch anything, but we sadly did not even see a fish.
We meet up with Paul in Trellis Bay, which is famous for the 'Full Moon Parties'. We visit a very good craft shop and purchase some interesting ceramics.
We return to Grand Harbour ( Foxy's Place ), to organise our fishing trip with Tessa's son in law, Adam. This is the young man we met the other day, fishing with his baby. He is taking Paul and MB on a fishing trip acting as guide and looking for big snapper and tuna.
Tuesday. Adam was up early to get live bait at white beach, just around the corner. He tells us he has caught so many sardines in just one throw of the net, he couldn't lift his net. He has filled his live tank with hundreds of tiny live fish.
Unfortunately, the wind is blowing 20+ knots, so JB decides to stay home and be spared the lumpy trip. Even though she was tempted with the thought of catching a 100 pound yellow fin tuna.
Paul and MB travel in Adam's 40 year old, 35 foot wooden fishing boat and troll one hour to the drop off. This drop off goes from 20-200 metres and is reputed to have large Wahoo, Mahi-Mahi and Tuna. We have a very frustrating 4 hour session out there, seeing only a few feeding birds, but nothing except Barracuda. All the fisherman are dejected and head for home and finally have strike both King and Spotted Mackerel. Of 5 strikes we only land 2 but there is a feed to take home to BP.
Paul and MB return exhausted, but are rejuvenated by a beautiful BBQ dinner of crayfish, snapper and mackerel, followed by a final season two episode of 'Deadwood'. Bliss.
Wednesday. We start with the usual relaxed morning breakfast, reading 'The Age' and doing the quiz. We called in to Foxy's to see Their manager Susan about the foundation. We then head back to Road Town to see the ships agent and visit Paul's surf board maker Bob Cameron.
We are now at 'Norman Island' in a large bay with the infamous 'Willy T's' floating pirate ship bar. Now off to sample their rum punch! Willy T's can be wild, the guests have been known to take off their clothes and jump off the upper deck to win a free T-Shirt. We bought ours!
We have dinner back on board. MB has a huge strike on a Tarpon at the back of the boat, but cannot land it.
Thursday. We revisit Road Town briefly to check out. Then we move back to Grand Harbour to say farewell to Tess and Foxy, as we are leaving for Puerto Rico tomorrow morning.
The BVI'S have been a great adventure, we understand why people love it here, beautiful islands white sandy beaches friendly people and plenty of rum punch!
JB and Mick