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It is only a short trip to the island, which is run by two countries the Dutch and the French.
For hundreds of years the Caribbean was the playground of imperialists who transported rum, slaves and gold between the new and old worlds. These far away kingdoms repeatedly conquered and retreated radically changing the areas political geography with the spark of a cannon.
After years of giving up these sand strewn paradises, only one of the Caribbean's 7000 Islands remained treasured enough by two different empires, the French and the Dutch, that they decided to share it. It is a strange set up where a border splits the island in two. The currency is Euro for the French and Dutch Antilles Guilders for the Dutch ( However, everything is displayed in US dollars). Everyone speaks English.
We entered Simpsons Bay Lagoon via a drawbridge that opens three times a day to allow for boat traffic in and out of the lagoon. It is a huge harbour with dozens of different marina's. Luckily it is not full season or as busy as when the boat was here last and we land a good berth in front of the Marina office pool and gym complex. Our new first mate arrives, Mike, who will replace Barry who will continue his land travels for a while.
Thursday. With Brad and Amanda we hire a taxi driven by 'Vincent' to have an Island tour. We are in the Dutch side of the island and we visit it's capital Philipsburg. We learn that it is very different in development from their neighbours on the French side. In the last 20 years they have allowed huge high rise multiple developments. There are 16 casino's here and many shopping developments, generally duty free with jewellery shops everywhere.
Philipsburg is quaint with two old narrow shopping streets being Front street and Back street. It also has the cruise ship terminal. On some occasions as many as 50,000 passengers are visiting on multiple cruise ships. Today there are about 12,000. We drove through and visited some nice beaches such as Oyster pot, before we crossed over into the French section.
What a difference. The French have not permitted high rise development and from appearance they do not seem to spend any money here on the infrastructure. The housing looks poor the roads are narrow and potholed, but the beaches are quiet beautiful white sand and turquoise water.
Again, it is not a big island. You can drive around the whole island in around one hour. We came to
A beautiful beach at 'Friars Bay', where we decided to have lunch at a beach cafe. We wanted to see 'Happy Bay' which was about 800 metres walk through fairly dry scrubby country to a magnificent small beach, where local families are having picnics. After our swim we return to Friars beach for lunch at 'Friar's Beach Cafe'. Here, everything is French including a beautiful dry white wine which we have with our fish.
On our way back to the boat we visit the French capital of 'Marigot'. This is a small quaint waterfront village with the usual bars and cafes.
That night we take the crew to the nearby 'Lee's Roadside Grill' where they specialise in ribs and fish. What a great meal. Most of us drank rum punches which a super strong. MB had to settle for a Chilean red as there is no French. we have the ribs and crayfish and lobster stew, delicious. As we are in the mood and celebrating Barry and the Nelsen's departure we ventured to a nearby roadside bar called 'Toffers'. More rum punches are consumed and there is great music with many talented Karaoke singers ( not us), although we give it a go. Barry and Paul are very cheerful and entertain the patrons with dancing and singing. Much fun is had by all.
Friday, the Neslsen's have left early before we get up. The weather outside our windows looks like winter. It rains all day. We visit the Marina gym for a good solid workout. After we relax and read until it finally stops raining. We then have our hair done at a very good French salon near the Marina.
Paul is attempting to get several mechanical issues dealt with while we are here. He is frustrated however, when spare parts arrive from NZ badly damaged. There are also local holidays for a few days when nothing will get done. Luckily, the tender did not have a problem, and has stopped blowing smoke.
Saturday, again the weather is poor. Very strong winds and rain so we have another lazy day but also another visit to the Gym.We go to Mass at Saint Maarten, Philipsburg and then to dinner
At a lovely waterside restaurant called 'Chesterfield'. We say our final farewells to 'Bazza' we will miss him. There is a very good menu here, conch chowder, baked Mahi Mahi stuffed with crab and seafood fettuccine with creole sauce.
Sunday, the weather has improved. After another solid gym session and swim, we head off in to explore the island by tender. Travelling through Simpson's Bay Lagoon, we exit near to Marigot. We then travel north to a small island near 'Anse Marcel', where we snorkel. We then return to the beautiful Happy Bay for a swim, then back to Friars Bay for lunch. This time we sit on the beach in one of the dug out beach tables which has an awning to protect us from the strong sun. We have icy cold beers and a light French lunch. On our way back we stop at Marigot, for a walk around the town. We venture the long way back around the island via 'Terres Basses', 'Point Plumb' and past the international airport at Simpson's Bay, then back under the bridge to the Marina.
MB has organised a Black Pearl Triathlon, which includes snooker, ping pong and deck quoits. Everybody has to compete and there are lots of laughs with aggressive competition from all sides. Darkness beats us as there are no lights in the Marina snooker and TT area. No outright-winner but we all had great time with a highlight JB beating captain Paul at snooker.
Tomorrow we leave for Anguilla then onto the British Virgin Islands.
JB and Mick
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