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Here we go,day one 21st Oct.Up at 5am.Had a long shower as it would be the last for a few days,baby wipes were to prove to be very useful in the coming days.
It was a beautiful morning,we had an hours drive up to K82 the starting point,we were among the first there so we got through passport control and trail control quickly,we got our photos taken at the beginning and I got shouted out of an Australian groups photo shot,I was too busy looking up!!
We were told the second day is the worst and I guess that took our attention away from day one.It was a long climb,the day got warmer and there were a lot of rock steps,I was to come to the conclusion that the Incas had a sick sense of humour,they weren't a very tall race but the steps they built were for giants,either that or they were kidding themselves on.
I managed to keep pace with everyone and walked with the guide often,my only problem was lack of breath,some of the girls were suffering badly and with headaches,their legs were sore too.My concern was that I hadn't slept for about three days,apparently an altitude issue but I didn't feel particularly tired. We arrived at our first base just befor 5p.m. which was about average time.We passed a few groups and we were passed by a very competative group which we nicknamed "Camp America" there were some very nice people in the group but some of the others left a lot to be desired.
That night we were introduced to our cook and porters,they ranged from 18 years to 57 years in age,what a lovely group of people.They passed us on our way up and were full of encouragment,telling us to rest and to take our coca,they were waiting for us in camp at lunch and tea time and clapped us in.We got a cooked lunch all high protien and coca tea.The snacks they provided were designed to give you energy too.We got a snack on arrival at the end of the day and a cooked dinner at 7pm.The cook had a great range of dishes and his cooking was very tasty.
CAMPING this was my big issue,the tents were for two , little framed ones, the porters had them ready for your arrival with your mattress down so all you had to do was roll out your sleeping bag.They brought you a bowl of hot water and a warm drink when you arrived in camp and we were lucky we tended to have a fairly secluded site each time. Only one problem the first night,we were on a slight slope and I kept sliding down towards the door,I was like a caterpillar making my way back up in my sleeping bag,several times during the night,so I unravelled myself and hooked my arm over the edge of the mattress it worked for a little while.The liner fits perfectly Norma,thankyou very much for your sewing skills.
5am rise the next morning,the porters wake you with a hot sweet drink of coca tea,it is sweetened with honey, then a bowl of warm water,breakfast is hearty,omelettes etc. then we're off. It is climb all the way on day two.the first pass is Dead Woman's at 4,215 m, The steps were my biggest issue they just took the breath out of me but I was still maintaining the guides pace,we got there in 5hours,well before midday,we climbed to the top of the hill there and made a group cairn,we made an offering to the mountain in Quechua tradition,Camp America thought we were mad,I think we were all a bit daft with altitude sickness. We then headed down to camp for lunch which was one and a half hours walk,heavy going on the ankles but the boots were well walked in and supported me well. After lunch we climbed again and reached the Cloud Forrest,it was a wee bit chilly but what a beautiful place,the path was pretty narrow in places but I tried not to think about that too much,we walked in cloud and in sun and Mary Lou was wonderful she told us everything there was to know about the area and made several stops for photographs,she was very eco minded as well and picked up litter along the way,we all ended up doing the same.The path took us past the most amazing Inca remains,they went up and up and as the Spanish hadn't got this far they had not been destroyed just left to nature.
We saw Camp America taking the short cut down to the campsite so the girls let them know they hadn't done the full trail.
The girls are hilarious,the youngest one is very outgoing and outspoken but is very nice,the others are of a similar nature and as we were climbing up to dead woman's pass we were all singing,or trying to in between gasps,we only seemed to know the choruses but it all helped in the end to take our mind of the effort we were putting in.There were some dance routines going on with our sticks as well,Camp America didn't seem too impressed, some people sought us out and said they wished they could join us,the Canadian lady and her son were not well from day one but they still managed,at one point their guide sent two porters back to help her over dead womans pass but she wouldn't have it,she gave them her day pack and she made it into camp before dark on her own two feet.
Next morning 5am rise,the whole walk was a total of 5 hours today,all in the cloud forrest,absolutely beautiful,it started off kind of wet and the path was cliff edge so we kept into the mountain,we weren't in a race so we stopped often and saw lots of lovely flowers,took lots of pictures. I was thinking if Norma and Irene were here we would never get anywhere as they would always be taking pictures of the flowers.There were flocks of humming birds too,different sorts,from small to quite large.Lots of wood bridges to cross, just poles with a good view of infinity below .
That afternoon when we got into camp we took a walk down to a beautiful Inca site,it was well preserved.
There was a shower with warm water at this campsite and as we were amongst the first there we went for it,what an experince,there were two showers in a big room, the curtain had been cut in two length wise and depth wise,when you managed to slide into the shower ,leave your towel outside and turn the water on the curtain stuck to your backside, the taller you were the better as all you could see were legs but I was out of luck!! everyone was standing watching you, all you could think about was how the devil am I going to get out of here with my dignity in tact,it wasn't easy,I just kept thinking I'm never likely to see any of these people again,I hope.We spent the rest of the day relaxing and chatting and had an early bed as we were to be up at 3.30am. the next morning.
Yoo Hoo!! I'm back, sorry I left you away up here,hope you didn't suffer too much from the altitude,had places to go and things to see,hopefully I'll get you up to date now.
Up at 3.30am.dark and a bit on the chilly side,quick breakfast and we were off to the gate,the trail is locked and doesn't open until 5.30am. We were the first there so the girls were very excited,lots of photos taken.As more people arrived you could hear them talking about getting up to the top first,it was a bit scarey as the path is narrow but Mary Lou was giving us lots of advice on keeping safe.The guard arrived at 5.30am. sharp and we were off after lots of processing of paper work,it was a good feeling to know that we were the first on the trail that day.
There were passing places and the true travellers waited until we were on them before passing,there were a few French people who would have had you off the cliff with them if they had slipped and a couple of abnoxious Americans too but we were quite happy,well sort of as I was climbing again and there were more steps.
The sun was rising,6'15am.it was stunning,later in the year you can be at the top for sun rise but the average time to get there is 2 hours,just before we reached the sun gate we were faced with a stone version of what looked to me like Jacob's ladder, IN THE NAME OF THE WEE MAN!!! Sticks away and hands and nails to the ready,up we went ,I thought it surely must be heaven at the top it was beautiful, the sun had come out and there were only a few people there so we had the best we could hope for.Breath back then we started heading down to Machu Picchu,the mist and clouds rolled in and out but it was stunning.The girls had me practicing "It's Such A Perfect Day" we had it word perfect by the time we reached our goal.
Our GAP leader and one of the girls who didn't do the climb were there to meet us, they had come up in the train the day before and stayed in the village below then got the first bus up in the morning so they were the first at Machu Picchu.We spent two hours with our guide going round the site then we had some time to ourselves.The sun was hot,hot. I spied a couple of the Australian girls arriving,the ones whose photos I wanted to be in,they waved to me and I asked them if they were taking any pictures!!! we talked for ages, they were teachers, working in Thailand teaching English to the children,when they heard of the earthquake they packed their bags and headed for Pisco and have been there shifting rubble and knocking down walls etc.they were having a break and have now decided to go back to Pisco,brave girls I take my hat off to them.
Just before we left Machu Picchu a Condor appeared, it soared round and round and caused a great deal of excitement with the locals as this is a very rare site.
Back down the mountain to the village by bus and late lunch,we had a look around then caught the train back to Ollantaytambo,the train runs along the middle of the street,very novel.It was a long journey home and we were all more than ready for a shower and a hairwash then bed.
We spent the next couple of days in Cusco recovering,it is a very nice place to recover and has lots to offer in the way of sightseeing,the hotel we were staying in was very nice too and the staff very friendly.I had my "dont follow me I'm lost" t shirt on one day and the young guys behind reception thought it was great,they asked if I wore it on the trail,I said of course.
The gang all went out on the last night in Cusco with the intention of eating Guinea Pig,it is the only time I haven't gone out with them,I had to say to honestly that I had never eaten or seen anyone eating Guinea Pig,it is a very rare delicacy here, yuch!!!! It turned out that nobody had any, I wonder why.
Our next trip was a very long bus ride to Puno.
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