The train ride to Mostar on Tuesday morning had some really spectacular scenery en route - was a bit of a shame I was so bleary eyed not to fully appreciate it! I was supposed to be being met at the train station by someone from where I was staying, but maybe not antirely suprisingly nobody showed. To cut a long story short, the woman eventually decided that she didn't have any space for me that night, but told me I could stay with her "friend" - I thought, that could mean chuffin anything! As it happened though, I ended up staying with an old Bosnian couple who didn't speak a single word of English but who were really quite sweet. I spent the day walking around in the blistering heat - taking a particulary humbling walk along the former front line that extends for about 400m through the city. As the guidebook so succintly put it, "gutted buildings still stand, their empty windows gaping like skeletal eye sockets." That pretty much summed up the feeling walking through. The main attraction at Mostar is the the bridge that spans the Neretva River. It was actually destroyed by Croat shelling in 1993, but has been beautifully rebuilt and now acts more of a symbol of unity more than anything else, since Muslims and Croats live on separate sides of the river. It really was a spectacular sight in the evening when the lights shone onto the polished marble like stone. I treated myself to a romantic 5 course meal for one with a prime view of the sunset - not bad value for about 7 quid either! The other memorable, for want of a better word, part of the day was when I visited a small cemetary along the main road. All the tombstones there have the same date on them - obviously a shell or something wiped out a huge number of the community. So, after another interesting and boiling hot day, I retired to my homely bed for the night - muttering something to the guy as he opened the gate for me. Certainly one of my most random travelling experiences walking into a Bosnians family home - I never thought I would ever say that! Jonny