Back in UB for 1 night, booked a driver (Sumeya), guide (Nara) and a Toyota Land Cruiser (sorry guys - no Land Rovers) for a 10 day trip to the Gobi and interior. We found a vegetarian restaurant and enjoyed what was probably the best meal since leaving Finland (surprisingly).

Set off early in the morning and swiftly left the heavy smog of UB behind us. After about 70 Kilometres, we also left roads behind; from now on it would be single track and variably mud, grass, stone, rock, sand and rivers - Often no track at all, just across open range or desert - no idea how the driver navigated - Huge open valleys and through canyons. One mountain pass had no discernible track at all, mountain goats were turning back but our driver took us through, sometimes at absurd and scary angles - The Land Cruiser performed excellently ( I'm sure a LR could do as well).

We drove for most of each day through incredible scenery that changed subtlety as we went from prairie to sand to rock to tree lined valleys. At the end of each day we would stop at an isolated spot (always scenically beautiful) and spend the night with a Nomad family (in their spare Ger). Each family was different but all kept livestock, usually camels or horses but sometimes sheep, goats or cattle - The nomads lived off their stock and our diet was influenced accordingly (a long way from the vegan meal in UB) although cabbage, carrots, and spuds featured, it was to back up meat from the local stock, often cooked in a dumpling, giving it a level of anonymity. Mare's milk featured heavily, we drank it neat, as tea, brewed into beer and distilled into Vodka - The Nomads were incredibly friendly and hospitable, so copious amounts were drank (it would be rude not to) sometimes we would spend a couple of hours in a session including a Mongolian sing-song. Mare's milk beer "Airag" was surprisingly good but camel's milk is an acquired taste.

Our lifestyle had changed and we soon dropped mixers and drank coffee black and vodka neat, no electricity (only candles) and wood fires were replaced by dung or desert roots - The Gobi nights were very cold. One of the "camel families" saddled up camels for us and we rode off alone (well except for the guide) into the Gobi and at sunset - bucket list stuff or what.

The Mongolian toilets are worth a special mention - Basically, they dig a hole about 1 metre square and 3 metres deep, although I cannot confirm the depth as I would need a dipstick and a stronger desire for accuracy. They build a makeshift hut around it (about 5ft 3ins high) and place two boards across the top. The technique is to stand on the boards, like skis and assume the racing position (adjustment of your clothing prior to this point is advisable), maintain a ski jumper pose whilst completing your process - Slalom movements are not recommended. And did we mention showers? Well no, but there is a reason for that …………!

Tomorrow we head for China - Bayarta Mongolia