Another early start with a taxi to the bus station for the 8.00am bus to El Chalten (Argentina's trekking capital). We stopped en-route for no apparent reason. However, it turned out to be La Leona, a ranch where Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid once hid from the long arm of the law - They still had "Wanted" posters on the wall (I guess the statute of limitations does not apply here). We travelled along the shore of Lago Viedma, made more picturesque by a glacier descending into it and a rainbow arched overhead. As we neared the town you could see Cerro Fitz Roy at 11,286 feet and the spires of Cerro Torre (10,174ft) - This was wild mountain hiking country, renowned for fierce winds, rain and cold temperatures and astounding mountain scenery.

The hostel was large and spacious (except for the kitchen,) the residents were friendly and very cosmopolitan and our room was excellent; that is until we discovered that a fracture in the window seal allowed the fierce West Wind to enter our room howling like a band of demented Banshees.

On the second day the weather was terrible, it rained all day and the wind never relented - We stayed indoors catching up on our admin and talking to our fellow inmates. Luckily the weather cleared up and on the third and fourth days we ventured into the mountains on day treks (9 hours walking and climbing each day). The first walk was 19km return to the Fitz Roy peak. The valley was full of autumn colours and looked very beautiful (reminded Heather of our settee and pictures at home). The second walk was to the Laguna Torres, a 3 peaked mountain and glacier lake with icebergs at the base. It was longer at 22km return and just as lovely with autumn colours, a glacier river, waterfalls and red headed Magellan woodpeckers etc.

This was tiring work and left little energy for cooking, so visits to the local restaurant and artisanal micro-brewery were forced upon us. On our last night here, we had a night out with some friends at a hotel, where local musicians were playing and Tango was being performed. Despite Heather's encouragement Dan was unable to join in as he had left his Tango shoes in his rucksack. Next day we were leaving at 7.30am to return to El Calafate for the night before travelling further south in to Chile for more hiking in Torres del Paine national park.