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Happy Hippos on Holiday
Hi everyone!
It's been a fun-packed final week in Bolivia (so much so that we have just got round to writing it up...and have decided to split it into 2 postcards!) Here is the first installment...
We last left you having just got back to La Paz from Copacabana, but less than 12 hours later, we were off again! The order of the day was an enjoyable bike ride through the Yungas, an area of rugged, forest-covered mountains and subtropical valleys.
The route was more technically challenging than anything we have tackled previously, with a vertical descent of 3,650m (12,000ft) over a distance of 64km (40 miles). Widely referred to as "The World's Most Dangerous Road", we decided that safety was paramount, so signed up for an organised tour with Gravity Assisted Mountain Biking, who had the best reputation, not to mention the best bikes in town.
We were driven up to La Cumbre (altitude 4,750m, 15,600ft!), where we were given our bikes, protective clothing, a detailed safety briefing and some 96% proof alcohol to swig and spill as an offering to Mother Earth! All kitted out, our group of 15 eagerly set off down the mountain, with our three experienced guides positioned front, middle & back.
The route was broken down into lots of smaller sections, each one beginning with a briefing on what to expect of the road ahead and how best to tackle it. A support vehicle followed closely behind, ready to fix any problems with the bikes (eg. broken chains or flat tyres) or to pick up any weary or wussy riders and take them to the start of the next section.
The initial 20km were on tarmac, which gave us an opportunity to get used to the bikes and their handling, especially round corners, and at times, picking up some serious speed!
Training time over and Phase 1 completed, we were given a short rest break before proceding to Phase 2, a rough, narrow track chiselled out of near-vertical mountainside that is "The World's Most Dangerous Road"! We now found ourselves riding just above cloud-level, which afforded us spectacular views of the mountain peaks, and masked the 1km vertical drops, the void next to the road appearing to be padded with cotton wool.
Descending into the clouds, the scenery changed, but was no less spectacular, the long-range mountain views being replaced by close-ups of dense cloudforest. It was not the clouds, however, that caused us the greatest visibility problems, rather the many blind corners. Fortunately, we were made aware of approaching vehicles via a system of whistles, indicating whether or not we needed to get off our bikes to let them pass - in some places the road was not wide enough for a lorry and a bike at the same time!
To add to the fun, at a couple of points, waterfalls crashed down onto the road, making both it and us wet and even muddier. Then the road changed from gravel to mainly dust scattered with rocks as we emerged from the clouds and got amazing views over the lush green valleys below. The steep drops reappeared, but thankfully the road also widened significantly, meaning we could relax and enjoy the mountain biking experience!
There was one final technical challenge to overcome as we neared the end - a river crossing. It was not too ticky, as long as you kept the momentum going and remembered to smile at the camera as you passed. (We have some short video clips on CD...if you are interested, e-mail us ...photos of the ride will be added to the website).
Safe and in one piece, we made it to the bottom, where we were given a cold drink and, more importantly, a welcome addition to our tired wardrobes: a "Going down has never been better" Gravity T-shirt!
It is difficult for us to describe the excitement and adrenalin-rush from mountain biking down "The World's Most Dangerous Road"... all we can say is that if you are ever in Bolivia ... just do it!!!
A late lunch was laid on for us at the Hotel Esmerelda in Coroico, one of the most beautiful spots in the Yungas. Whilst most of the group headed back up to La Paz that evening, we decided to stay in the hotel to relax ad make the most of Coroico's beautiful environs.
Obeying our Bible (a.k.a. The Lonely Planet), we went on another recommended hike, this time in search of a trio of waterfalls. With only two waterfalls found but the light beginning to fade, we turned for home, content with the beautiful views over the valley that we had seen, more easily appreciated on foot than on mountain bike!
Back at the hotel, we met up with Mel & Steve, an English couple who had been on the same tour as us, and went out for dinner together. The next morning, we awoke feeling much less achy than expected - thanks to excellent quality bikes and being taught good biking technique!
Our room had a balcony overlooking the valley, which gradually appeared as the early morning mist dissipated - the large hammock on it being a perfect postcard writing spot! As the sun burned through, we relocated to the poolside for several hours before heading back up to La Paz.
The return journey back up "The World's Most Dangerous Road", (where buses appeared to lean over the precipices as they passed other vehicles) made us glad we'd biked down - it really is the safest way!
That's all for now...watch this space for the second installment...to follow soon!
Hope you are all well.
Take care!
love,
Kirstie & Zena
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