NO PLACE LIKE DOME
Although Peru and Chile are neighbouring countries, there is quite a contrast between them. Chile has a more Western outlook (compared with Peru which seems to be much more in touch with, and have more dependence on, its past) and this is demonstrated in the modern shops, clothes and infrastructure evident throughout the country - and La Serena was no exception. After arriving from San Pedro de Atacama overnight, we found a hostel and quickly made our way to the beach for a few hours of sunbathing. Later, we were keen to get back in touch with our Western roots for a few hours to see the new Bond film and were directed to the nearest cinema which was apparently to be found at something called 'el moll'. We were a bit confused by this new word in our admittedly limited Spanish vocabulary but soon realised that the wife of some local gangster wasn't showing movies in her front room but that we should go to the nearby shopping mall which looked like it could have been plucked straight from middle America. Unfortunately el Bond wasn't out until the following week so we decided to give the cinema a miss as the only film showing with subtitles rather than being dubbed into Spanish was some supernatural film with Keifer Sutherland that looked a bit rubbish in any language. Instead we amused ourselves by wandering around the mall before heading back to our hostel.
Next day we headed into the Elqui Valley to the town of Pisco Elqui and, if you believe the Chileans, the home of their national drink, Pisco. Peruvians will say that Pisco is their national drink which is brewed in Pisco in Peru. The debate rumbles on but, having sampled Pisco Sours in both countries, we can happily confirm that, if nothing else, they both get you pissed.
Other than trying to settle an age-old debate about brandy, we also went to the Elqui Valley as it is famous for being one of the best places in the world to view the night sky with over 300 clear nights per year. We were reviewing a very different hotel to the previous one in the Atacama desert as here the 'rooms' are large white tented domes which are supplied with your telescope and detachable roof enabling you to watch the stars from the comfort of your bed. As well as being a real novelty, this is a top class hotel with a great chef, and as we were the only guests at the hotel that night (there are only seven domes and it's still low season here), we were treated to a delicious three course meal prepared especially for us.
Although it was another crystal clear night, the lure of the pisco sours and local wine resulted in us seeing twice as many stars as we were supposed to. Lying in bed and gazing up at the stars as we dropped off to sleep, bundled up in blankets, was definitely one of the highlights of the trip so far.