Dont know if any or all of my last few blogs have registered as the systems have been crashing within minutes of my logging on but wil try again.

Now well into Syria having spent two nights in Aleppo and on our way to the great castle of Crac de Chevalier tomorrow.

Got thorugh the border crossing with a minimum of bother considering three of our number didnt have forward visas applications but eventually they caught up with the rest of us at the hotel.

One interesting touch was the requirement to have our temperatures taken to avoid the risk of swine flu. After we had been reassured that the test would be through our ears - not other orifices - we were all declared fit to go.

Nice note in Aleppo is the hotel where TE Lawrence checked out without having paid his bill back in 1909. Also managed to get round the souk before in closed for two days - Friday being the day of prayer here. Souk as larger than Istanbul and much narrower so the press of people was intimate in the main and the sellers were quite good at opening lines "You are English?........where from.....what do you need for your wife, sister, mother, friend.......maybe you are gay?"

Managed not to buy anything yet . thought i would save myself for the even larger souk in Damascus but the sound and smells of spices and soaps was everywhere in the narrow lanes of the market which has been here for over 2000 years. The claim is that Aleppo is one of the oldest constantly inhabited cities in the world and its citadel is a thing of sheer majesty with its deep moat and difficult entry gate.

Fashion note - bow tie crotch opening panties are in fashion under the burka if shop windows are to be believed. The sighting of a lime green bra with a metallic sheen finish was almost more than one of our group could handle.

Loved the moment when a traditionally dressed young woman smiled at me in the souk as if to say "we have the power to turn your heads and hearts.....whatever we may be wearing"

Food in Gaziantep was as interesting as the promise of 180 pastry shops could be. Visited the most famous and sat there with a plate of baklava at a cool marble topped table which reminded me of the ice cream parlours of my youth where my grandmother used to take me for a weekly treat........sometimes I was even allowed to have a topping of cherry syrup.

Food otherwise has been a succession of koftes; kebabs and lots of bread. NOt helping is the fact that now in Syria everywhere really is closed until dusk and then hell breaks out as every eating house sets down the same traditional end of fast meal of lentil soup (really) dates, meze more lamb and finishes of with cold rice pudding (no that is real as well).

Off now to get ready for another break fast dinner and a walk past the giant water wheels which decorate the river bank of this regional town