Finally we got on board the train to bangkok..this time the carriages were Thai and much better designed than the previous ones we'd been on, good size seats and bunks, good windows and plenty of space. We were a bit tired and did nod off a few times. The northern malaysian landscape was more agriculural and we passed paddy field after paddy field. Occasionally we'd come across those magical mountains that look like they're giant termite hills and shoot straight up. The scenery was superb and we watched it for hours. Eventually we got to the Malaysian/Thai border and went through passport control, no major hassle and they even had a little duty free shop to browse while you waited. The Malay trains decoupled and we had to wait a while for the Thai engine and first class carriages to show up. The railway gauge is very small only about 2.5 foot wide and yet the trains are all full size, they use a lot of suspension and these carriages really do bounce about. Once the Thais came on board things suddenly changed. There was nothing wrong with anything on the Malaysian side, but the Thais added their own magical touch.....bright, clean silk curtains were put on and they generally livened the train up. The toilets had been okay previously, now the Thais put in bright clean curtains and attached bags full of fresh herbs to the fan vents which made visiting the WC a pleasure and overall they added little touches, fresh flowers here and there......a lot of countries relying on tourism could learn a lot from sending their tourist people for a ride on this train. The service was also outstanding.

Later when it got dark and after we had been served some nice Thai food, we decided to have a wander up to the Buffet Carriage.....we had to walk through the Thai First Class section, it wasnt that different from ours. We walked into the Buffet Carriage and it was a blast of fresh air, Thai Pop music was playing, the Mekong Whiskey and Singha was flowing and everyone was having a wonderful time. We joined in the party and so did the armed police who accompany the train through the disputed southern districts. It was fantastic and the staff were friendly and would even down the odd beer every now and then......all of a sudden you knew you were in Thailand. We wobbled out of there at a late time and hit the hay on those spacious Bunks. For once I didnt wake up screaming.