After 5 days we left Dunedin. This is the longest we have stayed anywhere and if I had to choose somewhere to live in NZ this would be it. Peter might not agree as the pub situation has not been good. In fact I don't think we found one that was open or decent.

We drove north to visit the Moeraki Boulders. Not just any old boulders but some rather spectacular ones sitting on a beach. It was freezing cold and blowing a gale but we braved it after a cuppa in the café. Two women came in and ordered a giant bowl of chips and another of potato skins: Peter looked on with envy as they worked their way through them. I should point out it was only 11.00 in the morning. I wonder what they were going to have for lunch. These rather perfectly spherical boulders range from 30cms to 2.2 metres in diameter. The largest weighs around 7 tonnes (how do they know that?) and took 4 million years to form (how do they know THAT?). They form within the muddy seafloor sediment when the mineral Calcite crystallises around bits of organic matter forming spherical nodules. The outer surface slowly hardens whilst the inner material dehydrates (by some chemical reaction) and shrinks producing cracks which run from the centre to the outer surface. Further Calcite crystallises (small brown crystals and larger yellow ones) in the cracks giving quite a nice veined effect. The area was later lifted above sea level and erosion exposed the boulders.

At Oamaru just up the coast, we had to stop for yet another car museum (yawn!) and also the more interesting Steampunk HQ, which is described as Retro-futuristic sci-fi art or a quirky and fun science fiction that features steam powered technology or just another big man shed. It is housed in one of the many grand old buildings scattered around town (built from a limestone that you can saw). What can I say; it was amazing to see what grown men can do with old bits of machinery.

Outside Peter noticed some soaped up sports production cars going by (actually the noise they made it would have been difficult to miss them). They were part of a rally driving down the east coast. They stopped at Oamaru for a pit stop in the car park where Sid was parked, so Peter loitered around for a bit before we popped out to another Little Blue penguin centre for a look at some chicks. They were rather smelly and that is no exaggeration; all evening we kept thinking a Penguin had sneaked into Sid. This centre was a bit staged with artificial nesting boxes and two big spectator seating areas either side of the small beach the penguins come up, but I suppose it does mean they can allow people to view them without causing any upset. Later we drove up to a secluded beach to watch for the possible arrival of the rare Yellow-Eyed penguin. Again it was freezing but this time I had every fleece and coat on. After 30 minutes a solitary penguin arrived and waddled up the beach. I left happy.

A piece of advice, don’t rely on nail scissors to cut hair. To reduce my luggage I thought I would make do cutting my fringe with nail scissors. They are of no use whatsoever and my fringe for the last two months has been a bit crocked to say the least.

We have a bit of a tradition when travelling of trying to go to cinemas and theatres whenever possible and in NZ we have been rewarded by some quirky cinemas and Oamaru’s is no exception. It was the tiniest of rooms with about 12 vinyl reclining chairs and two settees none of which were fixed to the floor so you could move them to the best viewing position. On top of that the heating consisted of a freestanding warm air heater which made such a racket that halfway through the film Peter gave it a good kick (we were the only ones there) which silenced it for 10 minutes. Before the film started an elderly lady poked her head around the door and asked if we were ready for her to start the film. (on Blue ray DVD)

We then headed back inland to visit Mt Cook and the Tasman Glacier. It is the highest peak (3,754metres) and the longest glacier(29Kms) in NZ. We had hoped to go on another helicopter ride over the glacier but the weather was cloudy one day and too windy the next so we had to make do with walking to the glacier lake. Rather sadly, at the spot we stood to view the glacier, at least a Km up the valley, the ice had been 70metres thick in 1990. We didn’t hang around in the town as it was a bit soul less, based around the hotel. This hotel had the only café, eatery and shop in the town.

Heading back to the coast we stopped at the end of the massive glacial lake, coming from Mt Cook and its glaciers, to admire the view and popped into the Salmon shop, strategically located in the car park. Peter looked at the smoked Salmon and decided to buy a small piece. I was a little surprised but didn’t say anything as the shop assistant was hovering. Halfway back across the car park he had a eureka moment and exclaimed 'did I just pay £11 for a piece of Salmon!’. He had to sit down and have a cup of tea. Whilst we had been admiring the view up the lake some Japanese tourists had been peeping in Sid’s windows. Good thing I had made the beds. Once in a campsite some Chinese campers had come and taken photos of the inside of Sid. Strange lot!