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Ramblings of a Polymath (more like a ferret) & His S
We woke in Rousse however there is nothing of note there except as a landing stage for a day trip to Veliko Tamovo and Arbanassi.
An hour and a half drive into the mountains on very narrow roads and little traffic took us to the old capital of Bulgaria , Veliko Tamovo. Youknow that the grass is greener on the other side of the street but did you know that the farmland is more productive on the other side of the river? Here in Bulgaria, much of the farmland is nowowned by businessmen and I assume farmed by their employees, so three large modern ploughs working in a line contrasts with Romanian horses and carts and old machines.
On two occasions we passed telegraph poles with large nests and Storks sitting on eggs, a large field beside a village with the entire town out clearing the field ready for planting, beautiful countryside and finally a well maintained Veliko Tamovo.
It’s main sight is the old defensive walls strung along the ridges and a church on the highest peak and a couple of streets with tourist shops. Better than any other town we have visited, we contributed significantly to its economy. Spending 65E in a country where the average monthly income is 350E per month seems unbelievable.
We are returning home with a new brass bell for our front door bell and the message on the bell remains for you to translate.
We drove on a short distance to Arbanassi known locally as the Bulgarian Beverly Hills. Very expensive real estate, very picturesque with a couple of sites that really are unique and
worth the drive. In fact, worth twice the drive.
Before a walking tour of this small village, we had lunch at a restaurant with large outdoor grounds, housing chickens and rabbits and probably best not to ask about their future.
A Bulgarian dance group and musicians performed. Bagpipes are a national instrument so I was in my element. I had finally reprogrammed my camera to film continuous videos, so I was able to record a couple of their dances.
We split into groups and walked to an old church that is now a museum and only used for services at Easter and Christmas. Under the Ottomans, they were only allowed to practice as
Orthodox Christians if they had no outward sign of it being a church, so no cross and no height. The church is built into the ground and when I walked inside I immediately made the comment to Ches that it was like the Sistine Chapel. Five minutes later the local guide said “We call it our Sistine Chapel”.
Because the people were illiterate, every inch of the interior has panels depicting the old and new testament stories. There were three rooms, all with low vaulted ceilings and timber seating around the walls. All with the high timber sides that basically hold you ridged with no room for fidgeting and distraction from the priest. In our case, there was an excellent
explanation about the nature of the church and then a quartet sang. Probably the best description would be to say that it was the orthodox churches equivalent of Gregorian chanting … maybe. The most amazing voices and I couldn't help but wonder that here were three women and a man with voices that should be heard by more than just the small local population and the occasional tourist groups. How they remain in a town of 35,000 that used to be 80,000 is a mystery. We bought their CD so they will reach a larger audience. Be warned.
We walked back past a couple of guys rebuilding a dry stone wall. Unlike any other dry stone walls I have seen, these are built in sections. Every metre or so in height, they lay a 6x6 beam to reset the level and then continue with another metre of stone and so on. Very tight construction and very level.
Next was a house built in the early 1800’s and now set up as a museum. Not with exhibits other than the furnishings and kitchen tools of the period. Very much influenced by the
Ottomans who ruled them, every room contained carpet covered benches. Some rooms for dining while reclining, others for entertaining and others for sleeping. All the family slept together on the one platform. Another room was designated as the procreating and birthing room. In the kitchen were large wooden troughs that were used for kneading dough and a
length of timber with carved recesses to shape and raise the dough. I might have to get some for our kitchen.
We finished the tour with a stop at the Rose Oil shop. Apparently Bulgaria produces around half of the worlds supply of rose oil, most from a valley in the middle of the mountain range that divides the north from the south. Actually called the Rose Valley, it must be amazing when all the roses are in flower and I can’t imagine the smell. Ches and I stop to smell the
roses in Petersham park on every circuit on our morning and evening walks. I’d never get her out of the valley and I must see if we can google any photos or Youtube videos.
Back on the boat, we prepared for and engaged in “The Captains Dinner” This is a five course dinner. Small portions as in a degustation menu but with a substantial main (in my case a magnificently prepared sea bass). Everyone is in awe of the kitchen staff on the ship. They only use fresh ingredients. No frozen food at all and even the bread is
baked on board and would challenge a French boulangere.
An hour and a half drive into the mountains on very narrow roads and little traffic took us to the old capital of Bulgaria , Veliko Tamovo. Youknow that the grass is greener on the other side of the street but did you know that the farmland is more productive on the other side of the river? Here in Bulgaria, much of the farmland is nowowned by businessmen and I assume farmed by their employees, so three large modern ploughs working in a line contrasts with Romanian horses and carts and old machines.
On two occasions we passed telegraph poles with large nests and Storks sitting on eggs, a large field beside a village with the entire town out clearing the field ready for planting, beautiful countryside and finally a well maintained Veliko Tamovo.
It’s main sight is the old defensive walls strung along the ridges and a church on the highest peak and a couple of streets with tourist shops. Better than any other town we have visited, we contributed significantly to its economy. Spending 65E in a country where the average monthly income is 350E per month seems unbelievable.
We are returning home with a new brass bell for our front door bell and the message on the bell remains for you to translate.
We drove on a short distance to Arbanassi known locally as the Bulgarian Beverly Hills. Very expensive real estate, very picturesque with a couple of sites that really are unique and
worth the drive. In fact, worth twice the drive.
Before a walking tour of this small village, we had lunch at a restaurant with large outdoor grounds, housing chickens and rabbits and probably best not to ask about their future.
A Bulgarian dance group and musicians performed. Bagpipes are a national instrument so I was in my element. I had finally reprogrammed my camera to film continuous videos, so I was able to record a couple of their dances.
We split into groups and walked to an old church that is now a museum and only used for services at Easter and Christmas. Under the Ottomans, they were only allowed to practice as
Orthodox Christians if they had no outward sign of it being a church, so no cross and no height. The church is built into the ground and when I walked inside I immediately made the comment to Ches that it was like the Sistine Chapel. Five minutes later the local guide said “We call it our Sistine Chapel”.
Because the people were illiterate, every inch of the interior has panels depicting the old and new testament stories. There were three rooms, all with low vaulted ceilings and timber seating around the walls. All with the high timber sides that basically hold you ridged with no room for fidgeting and distraction from the priest. In our case, there was an excellent
explanation about the nature of the church and then a quartet sang. Probably the best description would be to say that it was the orthodox churches equivalent of Gregorian chanting … maybe. The most amazing voices and I couldn't help but wonder that here were three women and a man with voices that should be heard by more than just the small local population and the occasional tourist groups. How they remain in a town of 35,000 that used to be 80,000 is a mystery. We bought their CD so they will reach a larger audience. Be warned.
We walked back past a couple of guys rebuilding a dry stone wall. Unlike any other dry stone walls I have seen, these are built in sections. Every metre or so in height, they lay a 6x6 beam to reset the level and then continue with another metre of stone and so on. Very tight construction and very level.
Next was a house built in the early 1800’s and now set up as a museum. Not with exhibits other than the furnishings and kitchen tools of the period. Very much influenced by the
Ottomans who ruled them, every room contained carpet covered benches. Some rooms for dining while reclining, others for entertaining and others for sleeping. All the family slept together on the one platform. Another room was designated as the procreating and birthing room. In the kitchen were large wooden troughs that were used for kneading dough and a
length of timber with carved recesses to shape and raise the dough. I might have to get some for our kitchen.
We finished the tour with a stop at the Rose Oil shop. Apparently Bulgaria produces around half of the worlds supply of rose oil, most from a valley in the middle of the mountain range that divides the north from the south. Actually called the Rose Valley, it must be amazing when all the roses are in flower and I can’t imagine the smell. Ches and I stop to smell the
roses in Petersham park on every circuit on our morning and evening walks. I’d never get her out of the valley and I must see if we can google any photos or Youtube videos.
Back on the boat, we prepared for and engaged in “The Captains Dinner” This is a five course dinner. Small portions as in a degustation menu but with a substantial main (in my case a magnificently prepared sea bass). Everyone is in awe of the kitchen staff on the ship. They only use fresh ingredients. No frozen food at all and even the bread is
baked on board and would challenge a French boulangere.
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