Prologue: This was my first cycling trip in continental Europe since 1983, and the first time I had made use of the European Bike Express (see photo). The bikes are carried in a trailer, and before loading, the handlebars have to be loosened and turned 90deg to the left, so the space is used efficiently. With just over a week to go, I had a go at turning my bars, and found they wouldn't budge! So I soaked the area with WD40 and still no movement. Then I hit on ...