I set off from Catllar 10am. Dry, sunny & warm. At Serdinya I realised I had left my sunscreen behind. I bought some at Olette, where I also had a croque monsieur & a coffee. Just as well as the next meal opportunity was not till Bolquere which I reached at 5pm. (Jennifer had forewarned me that in France one has to stop for lunch before 1330 at the latest, otherwise expect to go hungry. In Spain the eating hours are much more relaxed, and generally much later too.)

I took Dirck's recommended back route from Olette via Ayguatebia and La Llagonne. Quiet, beautiful but no food for 30 km and uphill all the way except for 2km! On arriving at Bolquere (which is near to a winter ski resort called SuperBolquere) there seemed to be a choice of two hotels. I had a look at both and booked in to L'Ancienne Auberge (photo), which was part of the Logis group. Dinner B&B good value at 54euros. After showering I wandered round the village, and from the vantage point of the churchyard I saw the celebrated 'little yellow train' (photo) that plies these parts.

Dinner was a 3-course set menu at a communal table, and hit the spot. As tomorrow was set to be a big day, I got to bed fairly early (ie before midnight!).